316 1.6 Overheating
- Thread starter championc
- Start date
By the way you are talking, possibly not properly. Is there a special procedure?
Is it possible that there could be a fault with the water pump? Can a waterpump fail but not spill any water anywhere?
Basically there is a buildup of pressure in the system but there are no leaks from the head anywhere
Cormac
Is it possible that there could be a fault with the water pump? Can a waterpump fail but not spill any water anywhere?
Basically there is a buildup of pressure in the system but there are no leaks from the head anywhere
Cormac
Try this link Pelican Parts Tech Articles
I am not sure if you have a plastic impeller water pump or not, if you do that could be the problem as well.
I am not sure if you have a plastic impeller water pump or not, if you do that could be the problem as well.
one suggestion.... bleed the system properly before replacing anything else. And when you bleed it, while the article Dan provided is VERY useful, one thing I did that made it easier was I left the bleeder screw screwed about two or 3 threads (as opposed to taking the whole screw out). I found doing it this way made catching the run over easier and it was easier to tell when bubbles came out of the system. Also, I don't know if the article mentioned it, but have just the front end of your car raised up and put the ignition in the "On" position and turn the heat to all the way hot.
Good luck.
Sean
Good luck.
Sean
I hope it's not a silly question but when you fill the coolant up and there are no more bubbles, it says to run the car to operating temperature but I assume this is with the Radiator cap ON ?? If the system is overflowing when you get to this point, would you not end up with the system still overflowing once it has run?
And by the way, what is the idea of having the ignition turned ON?
Cormac
And by the way, what is the idea of having the ignition turned ON?
Cormac
I'm not terribly sure why you turn the ignition to on... I can fathom a guess. However, in the bentley manual (apparently bentley manuals for this car is the 'authority), it states to do this when bleeding your coolant system.
And yes, when the bubbles stop, you tighten the bleeder screw and tighten the radiator cap and run it to normal operating temp. Then you remove cap (carefully!) and fill as needed.
I believe the turning it to on and putting the heat on allows the whole system to fill while you pour in. I did it this way and I did not have to top off after letting the car heat to operating temperature.
Good luck & no stupid questions. It's better to know exactly what you have to do before tinkering with anything.
Sean
And yes, when the bubbles stop, you tighten the bleeder screw and tighten the radiator cap and run it to normal operating temp. Then you remove cap (carefully!) and fill as needed.
I believe the turning it to on and putting the heat on allows the whole system to fill while you pour in. I did it this way and I did not have to top off after letting the car heat to operating temperature.
Good luck & no stupid questions. It's better to know exactly what you have to do before tinkering with anything.
Sean
Many thanks for the clarification. I filled the system this evening and it would appear that my problems are solved. It's amazing to think that there is no autobleeding in the system. I have found many posts on Boards on the web relating to overheating of these BMW's and you have to wonder how many people took the trouble of visiting their main dealers to have this fairly simple fault rectified. And that's not to say how many thermostats, rads or head gaskets were replaced - possibly needlessly !!!
Many thanks to all
Cormac
Many thanks to all
Cormac