325i 2001 - torque loss

breyes

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#1
I own a '01 325i with 55k miles. I've noticed that the engine has lost some power or torque, it used to feel faster in the starts. Now it feels kind of slow, sometimes I feel as if I were in the wrong gear... Nothing has been done to the car other than 3 oil changes (as scheduled). Is there something that needs to be done in terms of tuning (air filter, injectors, etc..). A couple thousand miles ago I took it in because the engine would die at restart when it was hot or when engaging the transmission. I also experienced a sever loss of torque at the moment. They said they replaced a sensor in the cam shaft, I guess it was a defect because they fixed at no charge at 53k miles. This time the engine doesn't die and the loss of torque is not as severe, but when you drive the car every day you can notice the slightest changes.
I've turned off the A/C compressor but the torque still feels poor. I hope is not the transmission (steptronic)... Have any of you guys experienced the same thing?
thanks
 
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#2
Nothing other than the oil changes in 55K miles?

At a bare minimum, you need to replace the spark plugs and air filter. If that air filter has never been replaced, your poor bimmer is probably getting about 50% or less of the air it needs.

If you want your bimmer to make it to 200,000 miles, take it in for service per the owner's manual. If you are keeping the car, it pays in the long run.
 
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#3
Excellent advise Kirby. I like to call it " Keeping the car up to spec". If the car follows the manufacturers schedule it becomes easier to solve problems when they occure. The process of elimination narrows it down quickly.
 

breyes

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#4
I have taken the car in every time I get the notification on the dashboard and the dealer always says it's the lube service, it was about 200 dlls the last time. They not only change the oil, they top off other fluids but that's about it. I thought the advisor would have told have told me when a tune up was required... I'll check the service manual... do you know if the service schedule is somewhere online in this forum?
thanks
 
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#5
It sounds like they did the Inspection I for $200.

For your model year, Inspection II calls out plugs and air filter every 60K miles, and oil changes every 15K but I and many others don't wait that long for those items. Especially the air filter - it costs under $10 and takes about 2 minutes to change.

BMW Inspection I - Every 30K for your model year
Undercarriage

1. Change engine oil and filter while engine is at normal operation temperature.
2. Check transmission for leaks.
3. Check rear axle for leaks.
4. Visually check fuel tank, lines, and connections for leaks.
5. Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
6. Check power steering system for leaks.
7. Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads.
8. Examine brake disc surfaces.
9. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers.
10. Grease wheel center hubs.
11. Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage, and joint disc.
12. Check front control arm bushing for wear.
13. Check brake and clutch system connectors and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
14. Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary.
15. Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary.
16. Check condition of tires (outer surfaces (left/right)), tread wear and pattern; In case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if required.



Engine Compartment

1. Read out diagnostic system
2. Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks.
3. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
4. Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir; add fluid if required.
5. Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
6. Check air conditioner for operation.
7. Reset Service Indicator.


Body/Electrical Equipment

1. Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
2. Perform batter load test.
3. Check lighting system, i.e. headlights, foglights, parking, backup, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
4. Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
5. Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
6. Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
7. Check wiper and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
8. Check condition and function of safety belts.
9. Oil hood, trunk/tailgate, and door hinges.
10. Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operation of all latches.
11. Check central locking/double lock.
12. Replace microfilter or Acc. Cabin Filter.
13. Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
14. Check rear view mirrors
15. Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations, or accessories.


Final Inspection

1. Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission


Inspection II - Every 60K for your model year
Undercarriage

1. Change engine oil and filter while engine is at normal operation temperature.
2. Check transmission for leaks.
3. Check rear axle for leaks.
4. Visually check fuel tank, lines, and connections for leaks.
5. Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
6. Check power steering system for leaks.
7. Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads.
8. Examine brake disc surfaces.
9. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers.
10. Grease wheel center hubs.
11. Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage, and joint disc.
12. Check front control arm bushing for wear.
13. Check brake and clutch system connectors and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
14. Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary.
15. Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary.
16. Check condition of tires (outer surfaces (left/right)), tread wear and pattern; In case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if required.
17. Check thickness of parking brake linings.
18. Half-shafts; check for leaks at flexible boots.
19. Inspect entire body according to terms of rust prevention limited warranty.

Engine Compartment

1. Read out diagnostic system
2. Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks.
3. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
4. Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir; add fluid if required.
5. Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
6. Check air conditioner for operation.
7. Reset Service Indicator.
8. Replace spark plugs.
9. Replace intake air cleaner element.


Body/Electrical Equipment

1. Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
2. Perform batter load test.
3. Check lighting system, i.e. headlights, foglights, parking, backup, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
4. Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
5. Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
6. Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
7. Check wiper and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
8. Check condition and function of safety belts.
9. Oil hood, trunk/tailgate, and door hinges.
10. Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operation of all latches.
11. Check central locking/double lock.
12. Replace microfilter or Acc Cabin Filter.
13. Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
14. Check rear view mirrors
15. Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations, or accessories.
 

breyes

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#6
Thanks for the info. I had found the same and it makes sense with what I've done to the car. Two oil services and 1 inspection, but if you see the required maintenance it's all checks except for the replacement of the microfilter, which they did in the inspection 1. They also changed the brakes (all 4) but I paid for it ($1k) because it was 37k miles. So I'll be in for inspection 2. They charged me $200 for the oil service... I think the inspection 2 will be something ridiculous... I'll probably then take it to an independent shop. In the meantime I'll replace the air filter. Thanks
 
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#7
Inspection II can run around $500 - $800 I think.

I also noticed in the list above, nothing is mentioned about brake flush. BMW recommends that every 2 years. The flush gets the moisture-laden brake fluid out of the system, which helps prevent frozen brake pistons due to rust.
 
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#8
breyes said:
Thanks for the info. I had found the same and it makes sense with what I've done to the car. Two oil services and 1 inspection, but if you see the required maintenance it's all checks except for the replacement of the microfilter, which they did in the inspection 1. They also changed the brakes (all 4) but I paid for it ($1k) because it was 37k miles. So I'll be in for inspection 2. They charged me $200 for the oil service... I think the inspection 2 will be something ridiculous... I'll probably then take it to an independent shop. In the meantime I'll replace the air filter. Thanks

If *nothing* needs addressing with your I2, it should run you $400 or so, I just had mine done a few months back.

That camshaft sensor, did it throw up a engine fault code? (It should have - I had the same thing a few months back) You don't have any codes flipped right now do you?? I'd check your air filter, but your car should be in superb condition being under warranty and having taken it in as required for warranty work. Something sounds not quite kosher.
 

breyes

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#9
I didn't see the report from the scanner when they fixed it. I only saw the CheckEngine light on the dashboard. It came on then off for few days. Then on again and it was when the engine started to die, the light stayed on until they fixed it. I'm changing the air filter and see if that makes a difference, then they'll change the spark plugs for Inspection 2. Other than this the car runs great... I was wondering if it was time to change it for a new 330, since I don't like to own cars out of warranty, I see them as liabilities, but considering the condition I hope it holds up like this for a couple of years more.
 
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#11
41 more days...

41 more days until the Get Wax Tour annouces the winner of the 240 sx that they are giving away. Anybody else signed up to win it?
 


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