325i just won't start

kraia

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#1
I have an 1989 325i. It just stopped working one day. I've done all kinds of checks and I'm wondering if this has happened to anyone else. The car turns over fine. The fuel pump seems to work when I disconnect the hose to the fuel rail and jump the relay connection. I've got spark and just replaced the cap and rotor. The crank sensor was checked and had a 1V reference which I was told was good. I checked the idle control solenoid and it was fine and I disconnected it and tried to start the car and it still wouldn't go. For some reason now after checking all of that sometimes it will catch for a split second and then die out again. HELP!!! Thanks!!!
 

kraia

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#2
Oh one more thing when I turn the ignition to the "ON" position the Idle air control valve only turns on for about 1 second and turns off. I think awhile back it either just ran with the key in the on position or maybe it was on my 525i. Thanks again.
 
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#3
So it cranks and cranks but doesn't catch? Did it stop working while the car was running? If it did check the timing belt. Take off the oil filler cap and look at the valves while someone cranks the car. If the valves are moving the belt is ok (for now). There's several recent threads on this.

Steve
 

kraia

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#4
Yeah I checked the timing belt when I replaced the cap and rotor and it was still tight. I just turned off the car and then it never started back up.
 
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#5
Crank it a bit and pull a spark plug. Is the spark plug wet with fuel? If not, you have an injection problem.

You said you have spark, how did you check it? Just to be sure, while you have the plug pulled, solidly ground the metal case of the plug (I use a jumper cable, don't just lay it somewhere on the engine) and crank. Do you have a good strong spark? If it is weak, the coil or ignition transistor could be bad.

It should have a mass air flow meter - when that is bad, usually a car will *just barely* run at idle, run like crap, and tend to stall as soon as you give it gas.

If all of the above check out, then timing is mucked up (belt slipped, dist. problem,) or not getting the right air/fuel mixture, which points to the mass air flow meter or computer.
 

Ben

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#6
did you have this problem right after you replaced the dist cap and rotor? if so, you might have got the wires in the wrong order.
 

kraia

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#7
No all of the wires are in order. I think that it might be the air flow meter. Does anyone know how to test that, and what values or specs I should be reading?
 


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