60k maintenance - how much?

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Murvin
#1
My wife's 330cic is due for the 60k maintenance. I don't have the time and patience (and probably half the tools) to DIY. What's a reasonable amount for a dealer to charge for this service? I know on other vechicles I've owned, this one is a biggie. I'm assuming just the basic charges - not including wear-item stuff they might find (like brakes, belts, hoses, etc.). I have an extended warranty for major mechanical.

Thanks,
Neil
 
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Ames, IA / St. Paul, MN
#2
I think the main point of the 60k is replacing the timing belt. That is VERY inprotant since BMWs have interference engines which if the timing belt breaks you can ruin your valves.

I know on a SHO engine some place s will change $400+ for changing the timing belt. It's probably cheaper for a BMW. Maybe someone has more accurate figures on the price.
 
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Edmond, OK
#3
I believe your car has a timing chain and probably won't ever be replaced. I think what you are talking about is Inspection II. Here is the list of items that your dealer should perform.

Change oil and oil filter while engine is at operating temperature.
We recommend BMW High Performance 5W-30 Synthetic oil, p/n 07 51 0 017 866

Check transmission for leaks.

Check rear axle for leaks.

Half shafts: Check for leaks at flexible boots.

Visually check fuel tank, lines and connections for leaks.

Check condition, positioning, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.

Check power steering system for leaks. Check p/s fluid level; add fluid if necessary.

Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads using special tool. Record results. If replacement is necessary*:
Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs. Check thickness of parking brake linings only when replacing rear pads. Record results.

Check brake and clutch system connections and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.

Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage and joint disc.

Check parking brake actuation. Adjust if necessary.

Check all tire pressures (including spare - except M3, M5, Z8 and Alpina). Correct if necessary. Check condition of tires (outer surfaces [left/right]), tread wear and pattern; in case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if requested.*
Note:If requested rotate all four road wheels as instructed and rebalance.*

Inspect entire body according to terms of rust perforation limited warranty (must be performed at least every two years).

Engine Compartment

Read out diagnostic system.

Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
Note: Coolant must be replaced every 4 years (time interval begins from vehicle's production date).

Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir. Add fluid if required.

Replace brake fluid every 2 years (timing interval begins from vehicle's production date).*

Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.

Check air conditioner operation.

Replace microfilter.
Note: reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions.

Reset Service Indicator.

Replace intake air cleaner element.
Note: Reduce replace interval in dusty operating conditions.

Body/Electrical Equipment

Check battery state-of-charge, and charge if required.*

Check lighting system, i.e., headlights, foglights, parking, back-up, license-plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated make-up mirrors, luggage compartment lights.

Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.

Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.

Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.

Check wipers and washer system(s);wiper blades, washer jet positions.

Check condition and function of safety belts.

Recharge or replace batteries for remote controls in all vehicle master keys.

Check central locking/double lock.

Check operation of all latches.

Check heater/air conditioner blower fan, rear window defogger.

Check rear view mirrors.

Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn covers, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations or accessories.

Activate automatic roll-over protection system (if equipped) via diagnostic link.
Note:First remove hardtop/lower top.

Final Inspection

Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission (except M3, M5, and Z8).
 
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Murvin
#4
Abdoman,

Thanks for the nice list. Inspection II is what the service lady mentioned when I called the dealer. So, if I get this straight, the only real work (not that inspections aren't work, it's just that you really can't be sure they do it) being done is oil and filter, microfilter, and air filter. Aside from that, it is likely that they'll want to change the coolant and brake fluid (it's a 2001 model but I think mfred in 2000). The dealer quoted $403 for just the list you made. I'll bet the farm that it's gonna be $700+ before I'm done (and that's if the brakes are OK).

Next question: I have a pretty good independent technician who could easily do this (except maybe the test of the automatic rollover protection) kind of service. Can you think of any real negatives in having an independent do this work?

Thanks,
Neil
 
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Edmond, OK
#5
If you have a good independent mechanic, there's no reason you can't use him instead. The only thing I would make sure of is that your mechanic writes the work as inspection II, for your records.
 

Campy

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#7
I just called two of my local dealers on this and was quoted $500 at one and $760 at the other. When I asked what it included they both said oil change, air filter and the interior air filter along with an extensive inspection taking approx. 4hrs.
I think that's outragous and will be looking for a local BMW shop to write it up as Inspection II like Abdomen suggested.
 
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#8
Campy,

I just called two of my local dealers on this and was quoted $500 at one and $760 at the other.
HOLY COW! That's more outrageous than the quote I got.

I called my local independent and have a written estimate that says "Inspection II" and lists the items. INCLUDING the brake fluid change and coolant change (which are not included in the dealer estimate - and the car is about 4 yrs old from mfg date so it's due for both), grand total $312. He said the cabin filter might be a bitch to change. Since it's a convertible anyway, I may pass on that. It's going in tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice guys and good luck with yours, Campy.

Neil
 
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Harrisburg, PA
#9
My meter says 1750 miles until I need my inspection II and I only have 44,500 miles on it. The BMW dealership I go to is probably the best option since they are official and recognized. However, there's a place called Bavarian Auto that concentrates only on BMW and Mercedes. They compete with Sun Motors BMW and truly understands what an inspection II entails.

Where I'm going with this is that they will do it cheaper, but they are not an offical BMW dealership.

Would they be able to write it up as an Inspection II? If I was to sell my car, would they question that I didn't get it done at a dealership and lower the value of my car?

If so, then it's not worth it at all. Furthermore, if it's hands down to go with a dealership considering workmanship, then that's another reason to go with a dealership all the way, right???
 
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Lincoln, CA
#10
njmurvin said:
He said the cabin filter might be a bitch to change. Since it's a convertible anyway, I may pass on that. It's going in tomorrow.
Cabin filter is easy to change. You open the hood and go in from there. It's a DIY kinda thing.

Edit: Found the link. Show this to your mechanic if he has problems.

http://www.bmw325i.net/maint_microfilter_replmt.shtml
 
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