Yes, my brakes are almost gone. Being as lazy as I am I took it o the shop to get an estimate, uhh $200 to change my damn pads? wtf is that $hit, anyways, aside from the great book, does anyone know of a step by step guide on doing it? Just don't want to mess anything up and die in the process, maybe more specifically is bleeding required for just pads? We replaced my frineds 190 roters a while ago, I wasn't playing attention.. Thanks
Almost to roters
- Thread starter equate
- Start date
Get yourself a Bentley manual. It will come in handy and well worth having to fix and upgrade a multitude of things. Having said that, an upgrade to the rotors would be the ATE Power discs at $40 each, Metalmaster or equivalent pads run in the 30-35 range per axle. The brake fluid should be replaced annually anyway so yes you should bleed the system. They can be obtained at these prices at www.eap4parts.com, Eurasian Autoparts. Other places have these parts too. BMW rotors don't have much metal in them for turning down and usually can't if they have significant wear. If you turn them down they are more prone to warp. It is always better to replace them if you go with upgraded pads anyway. Pelican parts (www.pelicanparts.com) is another source and has a forum website with tech articles. Try that for instructions.
Use soft OE pads or equivalent otherwise they will squeal like hell. The rotors are probably worn too thin if they have not been changed previously. To bleed the system you start with the right rear, then the left rear, followed by the right front and lastly the left front. DOT 4 is the factory spec fluid. It is a piece of cake if you have or can make use of a pressure bleeder. In either the manual method using a second person to pump the brake pedal or the pressure bleeder method, let fluid out until you see the clean fluid flow. Keep refilling the reservoir. DO NOT let air in the system by letting the master run dry. If you are not changing rotors your brakes can't be that bad, although it may take a long time for the pads to seat if they ever do. All those grooves and ridges do not make for smooth braking. Good luck.
DO NOT TURN BMW ROTORS... u can do it, but they weren't really made to be turned, and besides... c'maaahn... replacements are cheap (another good site is www.eurowebparts.com ... excelent prices)
if your'e not doing any auto-xing or anything, don't put too much thought into the pads... BMW uses Pagid from the factory i believe, so i just used those... changing pads on an e30 is just like changing pads on any other car w/ rotors... use google to find a write-up if needed
if your'e not doing any auto-xing or anything, don't put too much thought into the pads... BMW uses Pagid from the factory i believe, so i just used those... changing pads on an e30 is just like changing pads on any other car w/ rotors... use google to find a write-up if needed
I agree, although the factory pads leave the wheels as if ground up charcoal were used for pads. New stock rotors only run about $35 each. I consider rotors throwaways with each brake job especially with high quality pads that last 2x-3x what stock pads last. ATE Super Blue or equivalent is an excellent brake fluid and runs about $9 litre.
those pics... um.... aren't exactly clear enough to tell, bro
if they're not giving you any vibrations, there's not alot of rust crawling it's way onto the braking surface (which should extend across almost the entire vertical surface) then i guess you'll be ok on those for daily driving w/ no problems
when in doubt, get new rotors, if you have the funds (& not too much of that is needed)
if they're not giving you any vibrations, there's not alot of rust crawling it's way onto the braking surface (which should extend across almost the entire vertical surface) then i guess you'll be ok on those for daily driving w/ no problems
when in doubt, get new rotors, if you have the funds (& not too much of that is needed)