Brake pads wearing out very quickly-advice?

[namco]

I have a bmw 328CI 1999 and i have a problem.

I had the brake pads and discs replaced a few months ago (original BM equipment) and after doing less than 5000 miles the pads have all worn out completely again to the extent that metal is literraly grinding against metal (and the metal dust is resting on the alloys).

What could be causing this?

Obviously i am about to get the pads changed again but dont want same thing happening again.

 

[Kirby]

Is it both sides or just one?

Possible causes I can think of:
1. Binding caliper and/or piston - both sides at the same time would be very odd, unless the mechanic reassembled both sides wrong.

2. Bad rear brakes - if the rear brakes are not working at all, the fronts will do all the work

3. Defective replacement parts - not likely but....

I assume you are not doing these, but listing them FWIW:

4. Riding the brake pedal continuously

5. Racing

 

[archang3l378]

If you drive in the snow, the DSC will start to go crazy, esp when you're trying to go from a stop. Don't get me wrong the DSC is good, but it does wear down your brakes.

Lastly, what's your style of driving? conservative, laidback, agressive? See if you can get those brakes replaced by the dealer for free. 5k is way too early for new brakes to be going south. Or, do what i'm gonna opt to do, Get a set of Brembo's.

 

[epj3]

Possible faulty brake booster and/or master cylinder. It could easily cause the pads to never really let go of the rotor.

 

[jnyost]

Driving like a bat out of hell.... just kidding.

How long did the previous pads last. If they lasted a long time, these may have been manufactured with a bad compound.

 

[olcrazy1]

check/fix

as stated above things to check.
1. Shape of the rotors, shoul dhave smoth machine finish on both sides.
2. Calapers should be rust-free and not binding, sand and moly lube all contact points, and friction points.
3. Be sure caliper pistons are moving freely and not binding.
4. I always recomend using OEM parts

The above should be true for front and rear brakes.
Use yoru E-Brake freaquently, as it is good for the rears to keep them from seizing up.
Mal-functionin rears will cause the fronts to wear quickly.
May beworth a full bleed of the lines and flush through fresh fluid.
Lastly, never squeeze the piston back into the master through the ABS, always break the bleeder when your compressing the piston and blow the fluid out that way. It i snot good for the ABS to blow fluid back through.

Some of this is my preferences, but have done me well over the years.
Good luck

 

[330i and like it]

Your not one of these people who drive with their left foot on the brake padel are you?

 

[epj3]

Re: check/fix

Lastly, never squeeze the piston back into the master through the ABS, always break the bleeder when your compressing the piston and blow the fluid out that way. It i snot good for the ABS to blow fluid back through.

Some of this is my preferences, but have done me well over the years.
Good luck

Hmm, I pushed the pistons back through on my 88 325is in the rears, and the brakes havent been that great.. until today when I was mad at my brakes not working, and slammed on the brakes from 60 - 0, causing abs to come on, and now they are back to how they were before the brake job.

I never heard that you had to do it that way, but i guess it does effect it.