Brakes & Rotors

[dm_longhorn]

What is the typical life-span of the e46 brake pads and rotors? I have 44k miles and I want to be prepaired to replace them.. not shocked when the day comes.

Is it worth getting the performance pads and rotors? I like the way the rotors look and I guess you could categorize my driving style as aggressive.

 

[sly]

The only time I ever had rotors replaced was when they were warped and it was done under warranty. Brake pads replacement depends on the driver and where you drive. If you do all your driving in the city or if you track your car or if you regularly drive your car hard with lots of hard stops, you'll be replacing your pads every 30K - 35K miles. With moderate driving, mostly on highways, I'd estimate that the pads will last at least 60K miles.


Performance pads and rotors are generally purchased by those who want to track their cars. Personally, I'd think they would be a waste of money for street use.

 

[Kirby]

At best you would want to put street performance pads on, but if you are satisfied with the stopping power you have now, and don't experience brake fade often, or at all, stay with stock running gear.

Putting performance pads on a car for street use can REDUCE normal braking, not improve it. Depending on the pad, they may not "come in" until a certain temperature, which you may never achieve under normal driving. You could wind up increasing your braking distance. Selecting the right performance pad for the application is extremely important.

By the way drivers, who seriously track their street cars replace pads and rotors every season, sometimes every WEEKEND. At a three day event, drivers can completely wear our a set of rotors and pads. Many have two complete sets of rotors and pads, one for street, one for track.

 

[aNoodle]

I've looked at alot of the aftermarket stuff out there, but as Kirby points out many of them come with drawbacks. And alot of the crossdrilled and sloted stuff are proven gimmicks. I've stuck to stock pads and rotors for my E46 for 127,000 miles. BMWs prices for th parts are pretty reasonable and I've learned how to replace them myself....they rake you over coals in labor!!

I've averaged about 2-3 pad replacements per rotor change. I think I'm now on my 3rd set of rotors on the front and 2nd on the back. (I could be off by 1. At over six years old now, I'm having difficulty remembering.)

I also pulled those stupid sensors off and didn't replace them. They are only on one pad of one side of each axil and oftentimes you'll hear a squeak from one of the other pads before the stupid dash lights up anyway. Better to just check your pad and rotor thickness yourself!

 

[Evermay]

It was'nt my question but you guys answered the one I had.Thanks

 

[Section_8]

What is the typical life-span of the e46 brake pads and rotors? I have 44k miles and I want to be prepaired to replace them.. not shocked when the day comes.

Is it worth getting the performance pads and rotors? I like the way the rotors look and I guess you could categorize my driving style as aggressive.

Howdy!

Kirby nailed the 'performance' brake parts aspect on the head.

I just had a total pad/rotor job done, Cost me just a few pennies over $300 for front/back Hawk HPS pads, front/back brembo rotors (OEM style, no slots, drills, etc), brake screws, and fluid. Cost $100 for the job - minus the brake bleed, I need to go back and get that done (bud just didn't have time that day to knock it out).

Yes I did get high performance pads, but nothing heavy-duty, mostly went that route to help cut back a little on brake dust. And I'm a pretty aggressive driver, my brakes get warm pretty quickly..

I got good prices on my parts, and a good price on the install - $400 total, I'd say your average range is going to be from 400-500, unless you have to take it to a stealership.

BTW I was just over 57k miles on my stock rotor/pads, but there were about as close as you can get to wearing on the sensor pad.. (Week later and I'd have been buying sensors too) Time may vary on when you need it done depending on your driving conditions of course. 44k does mean you're getting close.

Throw it on a stand, and take a look at the wear on your rotors (you can possibly do this w/o taking a wheel off, depending on how 'fat' your wheel spokes are - can you get a hand in there? Run your finger against the rotor - stock rotors have an outside 'lip', so you can 'feel' how 'deep' the wear is from the top of the lip (which does not wear at all). Check the front and back for even-ness of the wear, should be the same front to back.

 

[aNoodle]

Hey, Sec8....where did you take your bmw in Atlanta? Sounds like they do good work.

 

[dm_longhorn]

I don't have the tools to do the install myself, however, do you think it's in my best interests to purchase the parts online and then take'em in for the install?

I know labor will kill me.. but do you think I could save a few $$ by purchasing the parts beforehand?

 

[Kirby]

Maybe. Some places won't care where the parts come from, others shops expect to sell you parts and make a small profit on them. they might take a little longer to get the job done to make up the difference.

Some places refuse to provide a warranty unless you buy the parts from them.

 

[Section_8]

Hey, Sec8....where did you take your bmw in Atlanta? Sounds like they do good work.

I get all my work done by Jamie, AtlantaM3 over on bimmerforums, (ack sorry T) he was working on Seth Thomas's car this past season - they're all good friends (Seth's another guy over on b.f.c. too - we have some great guys coming to the ATL meets, you need to come up next time..) BTW Seth's Car is a BMW race team car, they've been all over the country this past season. He does great work out of his own garage(Jamie), he's up in the Buford area. (NW ATL)

Jamie did my suspension work too, he's the real deal - and a cool guy to talk BMW smack with..

 

[Section_8]

I don't have the tools to do the install myself, however, do you think it's in my best interests to purchase the parts online and then take'em in for the install?

I know labor will kill me.. but do you think I could save a few $$ by purchasing the parts beforehand?

I may not get them online next time, but I did *this* time because I did get a good deal, however:

They didn't ship my front brake pads the 1st time.
They sent the wrong ones the 2nd time.. 328 or something, they were too thick and wide, my bud spotted problem quickly, and we grabbed beers and called it a day..
finally got the right one's 3rd time..

If you're only going to get stock stuff, I'd just find a good shop that won't screw you on cost, and get them to order it and then do it themselves - less chance of screwup on parts for sure (like Kirby said!). Hit a reputable site like bavauto or something huge, and get the complete setup if you want to do it on your own. Double-check it once it gets there..

Labor on a brake job isn't that bad, depends on if you're getting a fluid bleed - otherwise it's a 2 hour job max if they know what they're doin' and you have everything. Proabably $500-550 w/ parts at a fair shop, maybe less if they don't hammer you on parts cost?

 

[aNoodle]

I don't have the tools to do the install myself, however, do you think it's in my best interests to purchase the parts online and then take'em in for the install?

I know labor will kill me.. but do you think I could save a few $$ by purchasing the parts beforehand?

I had never changed my own pads, but you won't believe how easy it is! After you get the wheel off, you're talking about two bolts. That's it! You need a single hex socket. I'm up in NYC now, so I can't go look to see what size it is. But dude, changing your own pads is SOOO simple. Taking the rotors off is only a couple more bolts and a hex nut (granted, sometimes it can be hard to smack them off). Maybe you don't much enjoy working on your car, but I think changing pads is about as easy as it gets. Give some thought to trying a DIY. There are some good sites that walk you through it.

Sec8, I've sent you pm's before and you never check them!!??!! I need to meet up with your friend. I'm thinking about putting a Dinan suspension kit on, I think I can do the rear myself, but I can't possibly do the front struts without some serious tools. I also have an extra control arm bushing that I had to buy in a pair that I now want to put on. Maybe I can visit Buford! Please check your pm's and hit me back.

 

[Section_8]

I got PM's but not from Anoodle?

shoot me an email, jvalken@bellsouth.net

Jason

 

[dm_longhorn]

I had never changed my own pads, but you won't believe how easy it is! After you get the wheel off, you're talking about two bolts. That's it! You need a single hex socket. I'm up in NYC now, so I can't go look to see what size it is. But dude, changing your own pads is SOOO simple. Taking the rotors off is only a couple more bolts and a hex nut (granted, sometimes it can be hard to smack them off). Maybe you don't much enjoy working on your car, but I think changing pads is about as easy as it gets. Give some thought to trying a DIY. There are some good sites that walk you through it.

Thanks for the heads up.. . I'm not exactly mechanically inclined when it comes to an automobile, however, I want to get "closer" to my car. Know any sites that would have DIY info on this?

 

[zman]

Putting performance pads on a car for street use can REDUCE normal braking, not improve it. Depending on the pad, they may not "come in" until a certain temperature, which you may never achieve under normal driving. You could wind up increasing your braking distance. Selecting the right performance pad for the application is extremely important.

Just as a reminder, if you get an accident with an alter pad that REDUCE the normal braking, your insurance MAY NOT want to cover it. In other words, your insurance will be voided. Check your insurance contract!