E30 M3 Control Arms on 325i?

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#1
The basic question is, of course, can it be done. The more detailed facts I'd need to know are if the ball joint holes are the same, and if there's a hole on the M3 arm for the sway bar link (Since the M3's connects to the shock tower). And lastly, if the rubber bushing mounts in the same exact place. I'd sure love to lose some weight off the front end, and some unsprung weight to boot with the aluminum M3 arms. Any info is, as always, greatly appreciated.
 
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#2
I've always heard they are a direct bolt in. Your post is the first I've ever heard about the sway bar linkage being different, though. So, I'm not sure about the swaybar. The rubber bushing mounts are located in the same place, but the M3 used the offset bushings. The ball joint sizes and tapers should be the same, as far as I know.
 
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#4
My left control arm is shot, I was planning on just replacing them with 325 ones. I'm guessing it'd be better to get M3 ones since it's wouldn't be anymore difficult? I'm looking through Pelican Parts, they have two different ones, Lower Control Arm, Left, 318i (1984-85), 325/e/es/i/is/iC (1984-91), 318i/is/iC (1991), M3 (1987-8/89), Each $94.50 (same for right), and Lower Control Arm, Left, Aluminum, M3 (9/89-91), Each $245. They both support M3s, but the ones I should get are the 89-91 $245, right [:(]. What other M3 parts work well on 325is?


And my car has been on jack stands for over a month, will this have any damage on the frame? What's the longest an E30 should be on stands for?
 
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#5
I don't think the M3 control arms are worth it unless you are a hardcore racer/autocrosser. On a street car, you aren't going to be able to tell the difference by using an aluminum control arm, except your wallet will be $300 lighter.

As long as you put the jackstands in appropriate places that can bear the load, there shouldn't be any damage to the frame.
 
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#6
I figured the weight advantage would be minimal.. I cheaped out and got the stock ones, but opted for the M3 offset bushings. Those make a noticable difference. Then again, my old bushings were completely loose. The main thing is that the car is tighter now, and I proved it with a late night 105+mph testing session once the arms were in.
 

epj3

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#7
jrt67ss350 said:
I don't think the M3 control arms are worth it unless you are a hardcore racer/autocrosser. On a street car, you aren't going to be able to tell the difference by using an aluminum control arm, except your wallet will be $300 lighter.

As long as you put the jackstands in appropriate places that can bear the load, there shouldn't be any damage to the frame.
I agree -- Though if you want lighter control arms, why waste your money on M3 control arms??? You can get aluminum control arms from BAVAUTO for not too bad a price.
 


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