HELP!! I need a little help with my first brake job!

jbripps

New Member
Messages
11
Likes
0
Location
New City, NY
#1
Hi all,

I'm just beginning my brake disc and pad replacement project. I've just started the first wheel and will finish up tomorrow as my C-clip is too small to fit on the caliper to push the inside brake pad back in. Otherwise, everything going smooth considering it's my first brake job.....ever.

Anyhow, a few questions.....any advice would be appreciated.

1. My instructions advise to use a c-clip to force the inside pad into the piston, and then instructs to pull the inside pad off and replace it with a new one. My question is, will I be able to pull the pad out once it's put back in the piston? Once I remove the c-clip, won't the pad just come outward again? Why not just replace with the new pad and then use the c-clip?

2. Do I need to remove the master cylinder top at all during this process? Looks like the reservoir is pretty low right now, and I'm in the middle of the first wheel.

I guess I'm a little confused as to the physics of pushing back the inside pad in when I'm going to remove it. I have included the link that I have been following, which has been very good and informative....I'm just a bit confused about the inside pad. Other than that, things have gone very smoothly.


http://www.my330i.com/mod9.php

thanks all,
 
Messages
352
Likes
0
Location
Eugene, OR
#2

aNoodle

1000 Post Club
Messages
1,137
Likes
0
Location
Athens, GA
#3
I've twice replaced my pads and once rotors. That language you're using is tough to decifer. Tracking your questions....

1. As far as "c-clip to force the inside pad into the piston" goes, just use a screw driver and push the inside pad away from the disc (rotor). You just need a little clearance. Once it's back a little, you can pull back the whole brake caliper away.

2. "Master cylinder top." Hmmm. My dad says it's easier to do number 1 above if you loosen the top off the brake fluid in the engine bay. I never did it when i replaced my brakes. But makes sense I guess to give the hydrolic fluid a place to go. As far as being low, maybe it's time to top it off? Or flush it when it's time as jb says.

Not sure if this helps. Hard over the internet to describe changing the brakes. Typing turns it into something else. But it's really so simple once you've done it once.
 
Messages
4,917
Likes
18
Location
Reading,PA
#4
It is easier to push the piston back in if you pull the master cylinder cap. TIP: Wrap a rag around the reservoir before you compress the piston. If you or your dealer topped off the fluid at some point, it's possible that the fluid will overflow and make a mess. Usually only happens after you've finished the first wheel and are working on the second. I found out the hard way one time....
 

jbripps

New Member
Messages
11
Likes
0
Location
New City, NY
#5
Hey all,

thanks.....JOB IS COMPLETE!! I'm very happy with the results. Anyhow, now that I completed the job, I totally understand the need to push the piston back, this is so you can get the room to put both new pads back into the caliper. The C-clip/clamp is a fantastic ideal to do this. Anyhow, the rear sensor was pain to reach, so I just re-used the old one. Really no need to buy new ones each time.

I thought the rear rotor portion would be more difficult. Once I couldn't get the old rotors off with a rubber mallet after 10 or 20 wacks, I just wacked the hell out of it in the open area with a regular hammer. 5 or 6 whacks, and the thing would just pop off. I heard so many horror stories on the rears, for once I didn't go through that. I'd rather just put new rotors on than deal with agony of a stuck rotor.

So, how long do I gotta drive before the low pad warning light will turn off?

thanks again. The article I referred to was fantastic. I saw many articles where they would instruct one to pull the caps off the back of the caliper and take the screws out....what was the purpose of that?

thanks,
 


Top