Idle problem in 2000 328i
- Thread starter blondboinsd
- Start date
This original post was for my vehicle that I had my friend write out for me. Yes I do use Premium Gas 91 Octane. The problem only happens when the vehicle is still cold. Maybe the first 2-5 minutes after starting the engine and stopped at a light in Neutral or Drive. The idle fluctuations happen usually when the temperature is cooler ie early morning or late at night after work.
Anybody know how to fix this problem or what to do?
Anybody know how to fix this problem or what to do?
Wow there are a rash of these posts lately. I had/have the same thing. I'm not sure I'm at the bottom of it. See orics post. I just replaced my coils, connectors, and plugs myself for less than a stealership would charge for probably one. I'm running increadibly smooth now, but still have a slight rumble on load occationally...I think it's a gas issue which is unrelated...not building proper pressure. My cold starts began mildly without any check engine light then got worse. haven't had one in the week since replacing the plugs and all.
I’m with BMW of North America, LLC. I’m sorry to read of your concern about your 328i. If you and your BMW center would like our assistance, please phone us at (800) 831-1117 or email us at CustomerRelations@bmwusa.com, and mention Reference #200514500615 so that we can help you more efficiently.
Re: Idle problem at cold starts & stalls
1999 328i (e46 - automatic), 108,000 miles
Let me share a similar situation and hope someone puts this information to good use. When I start my car first thing in the morning, it starts fine, then after several seconds the idle problems starts, the rpm’s drops from 1000 down to 500, goes back up then drops down again before eventually stalling. Start it up again and once the car warms up the problem goes away for the rest of the day. I recently purchased this car and looks as though its been this way for a while. A week later, the ses triggered and after taking it to the shop, they identified fault code 1-activation, ignition, cyl 2. They explained that the crankcase vent valve + hoses needed to be replaced.
Crankcase vent valve (pressure regulating valve) #11617501566 part $43.50; vent pipe #11611432559 part $22.00 ; vent hose #11157532649 part $9.70 ; connecting line #11611440317 part $28.75; labor $300
After putting out $450, it didn’t fix my original idle problem. I took it back to have them look at it again, then they came back with Idle air valve (t-shape idle regulating valve) #13411744713 part $180. I wasn’t going to fall for it twice so I got a second opinion. This time I had honest guy really diagnose the problem by ruling out everything from vacuum hose leaks #51731470035, idle air valve, throttle body (throttle housing assembly) #13541433414. The guy explained that he was puzzled since it wasn’t throwing out any codes. But, eventually, the answer surfaced, it’s the VANOS.
VANOS assembly (RMFD Adjustment Unit) or variable camshaft control (Variable Nocken-Steuerung or Variable Nockenwellen-Steuerung) #11361440142 part $475/labor $500.
Now, I forked out $1000, and the idle problem is finally fixed. Mornings start-up are great. Looks like in 99 the manufacturers switched from a single vanos to a double vanos and there must be a faulty part incased in the unit. I’ve heard this being the problem on more current models with lower mileage as well. Hope this information helps.
Regards,
JT
ps: I also read in another thread that someone resolved this with a solution on BMW bulletin, with a software upgrade. Didn't try this since I read it after replacing the vanos.
1999 328i (e46 - automatic), 108,000 miles
Let me share a similar situation and hope someone puts this information to good use. When I start my car first thing in the morning, it starts fine, then after several seconds the idle problems starts, the rpm’s drops from 1000 down to 500, goes back up then drops down again before eventually stalling. Start it up again and once the car warms up the problem goes away for the rest of the day. I recently purchased this car and looks as though its been this way for a while. A week later, the ses triggered and after taking it to the shop, they identified fault code 1-activation, ignition, cyl 2. They explained that the crankcase vent valve + hoses needed to be replaced.
Crankcase vent valve (pressure regulating valve) #11617501566 part $43.50; vent pipe #11611432559 part $22.00 ; vent hose #11157532649 part $9.70 ; connecting line #11611440317 part $28.75; labor $300
After putting out $450, it didn’t fix my original idle problem. I took it back to have them look at it again, then they came back with Idle air valve (t-shape idle regulating valve) #13411744713 part $180. I wasn’t going to fall for it twice so I got a second opinion. This time I had honest guy really diagnose the problem by ruling out everything from vacuum hose leaks #51731470035, idle air valve, throttle body (throttle housing assembly) #13541433414. The guy explained that he was puzzled since it wasn’t throwing out any codes. But, eventually, the answer surfaced, it’s the VANOS.
VANOS assembly (RMFD Adjustment Unit) or variable camshaft control (Variable Nocken-Steuerung or Variable Nockenwellen-Steuerung) #11361440142 part $475/labor $500.
Now, I forked out $1000, and the idle problem is finally fixed. Mornings start-up are great. Looks like in 99 the manufacturers switched from a single vanos to a double vanos and there must be a faulty part incased in the unit. I’ve heard this being the problem on more current models with lower mileage as well. Hope this information helps.
Regards,
JT
ps: I also read in another thread that someone resolved this with a solution on BMW bulletin, with a software upgrade. Didn't try this since I read it after replacing the vanos.