iX wont start now

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Colorado Springs
#1
just replaced the alternator. i thought i had the neg cable off but last night when i stopped i hooked it back up for some reason & when i was finishing the alternator & a few other things today i got a spark when installing the alternator.. i forgot to disconnect again (out of sight out of mind i guess).

so now everything is back together & it wont start. it cranks nice & solid but wont fire.

right after i turn the ignition key to on there is a flashing "check" light at the bottom center of the dash. & its on weather or not im cranking or not.

ive already checked fuses & i reset the other idiot lights.

did i kill the ecu?
 
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Location
Hartselle, AL
#2
The CHECK light comes on when one of the monitors is set off, what LED is illuminated above the rear view miror, o and if you push the check button above the mirror, the light goes off.
 
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Location
Pittsburgh, PA
#3
hmmm, only experience i have with my car not fireing ended up being the fuel pump. I banged with my fist right below the rear passenger side seat while turning the key and it fired right up. A few weeks later after having to do this often i had to replace it.

You could pull up the rear seat and put your ear above the black cover to the pump and listen for a humm. I don't know the year of your ride (what kind of fuel system) though.

I guess that one thing to check....
 
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Location
Colorado Springs
#4
sorry.. i should have been more specific w/the car...

88iX

thanks for the input so far.. ill try them when i get home from work 2night.

the lights that come on are the "brake lights" & "cooolant".
 
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Location
Washington State
#6
Sounds to me like the check lights have nothing to do with your problems when starting the car. Check the plugs, check the fuel pump perhaps. Maybe something wrong with cold start system?
 
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Location
Hartselle, AL
#7
my coolant light is always on too, sensor, i would have looked up No Start TSBs at work yesterday, but it just blew my mind, and i wont be back at work till monday, sorry
 
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Washington State
#8
My nextdoor neighbor has a an 88 325i convertible, so he bought himself a diagnostics computer. It's really small, somewhat expensive, and incredibly simple and acurate. If you don't have one, I'm told you can find it on ebay from 90-100 dollars, and it's well worth it. I've used it multiple times and it's found problems I didn't even know I had.
 
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Location
Colorado Springs
#9
e30fr3@k... do u know what its called or have a part number? is it like the ones from bavauto that are round & use the OBD I system for like $150? ya, i think that would be a good idea. if my ecu is dead.. will this tell me that?

poboy... thanx n e way. & i wish i didnt have to b back at work till monday :D

i may have a mobile guy come out & diagnose it... cuz i have a similar problem on my brothers accord & our audi is acting weird too.

my biggest problem is diagnostics. if i know whats wrong i can usually fix it.. especially w/help or a good book/diagram.
 
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Location
Ventura CA
#10
If it cranks ok you have one of two problems - spark or fuel. To check for spark, turn the ignition off and remove a connector from one of the spark plugs. Connect it to a known good spark plug, preferably a new plug. Do not hold the spark plug or its connector, even if using insulated pliers or you may get a good shock yourself. Instead, position the plug so the outer electrode is grounded on the engine. While someone cranks the engine over look for a distinct blue-white spark about every second. If you don't have a spark check to make sure you have power at the coil.

You can check to see if your fuel pump is working and check the cold start valve at the same time by pulling off the CSV and verifying that it pumps out a nice even cone shaped spray for up to eight seconds while cranking the engine. Pull the main relay to disable the engine prior to the test.

If you have fuel and spark about the only other thing to check would be to make sure the fuel injectors are acually working. There may be a break in the wiring between the computer and the injectors.

This was all out of the Bentley manual so if you need more help refer to yours.

Good luck.

Steve
 
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453
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Location
Hartselle, AL
#11
u have a no start Accord? if it as a v6, the ignition switch is bad, i think $80 from Honda, if it is a 4 cyl, its either the ignition switch or the distributor, a distributor is about $150-$200 from a boneyard, thats ure best bet there, neither are hard to change, those are the only things that really keep a Honda from starting
 
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Location
Colorado Springs
#12
ignition switch makes HUGE sense. (4cyl)

for about a year now if the stearing column got to hot (sitting in the sun) it wouldnt start. we thought it was vapor lock or something & would always park in the shade. then it started doing it more often & my brother got pissed of & hit the horn & it started right up. so we started putting pressure on top of the column when it would happen & it would start. maybe its finally had it.

thanks a lot for that info.
 
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31
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Location
Colorado Springs
#18
i checked all the fuses 1st thing.. all good.

i dont have anyway to check relays or the ecu..

i ended up calling a mobile mechanic who could diagnose the problem(s) for me.

Honda was the ignition.

iX was a bad battery & bad alternator (both are less than 3wks old & bought from different stores). i think when it sparked it could have blew the diodes out on the alt.. no clue on the battery.

i have the new alternator on order & already replaced the battery. so it should b on the road today or 2morrow.

i would like to thank everyone for their help.
 


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