can anyone tell me what are the major or common problems associated wit e30s? i wanna keep the car for a while and im the second owner but i want to know what are the common problems.. i have a pretty good budget to work on it now thankfully so if anyone can provide me wit the info i would appriciate it.. like electrical , drivetrain, fuel flow etc etc . thanks
major e30 problems
- Thread starter xbeemere30x
- Start date
Out of the 4 e30s I've had, the only problems I've ever run into was driveshafts needing to be rebuilt (2) and old non-functioning shocks (3) and one clutch.
Beyond that, the only other items that has ever really required replacement was the timing belt and water pump. I've been fortunate and never really had any catastrophic or serious problems.
I know that small electrical problems are common, such as sensors going bad with age (cooland, oil, washer fluid, etc). Unless the car has been driven like a race car all the time with infrequent oil changes/tune ups, I"d venture that huge problems aren't a very common thing. I've found e30s to be quite reliable.
Anyone else?
Beyond that, the only other items that has ever really required replacement was the timing belt and water pump. I've been fortunate and never really had any catastrophic or serious problems.
I know that small electrical problems are common, such as sensors going bad with age (cooland, oil, washer fluid, etc). Unless the car has been driven like a race car all the time with infrequent oil changes/tune ups, I"d venture that huge problems aren't a very common thing. I've found e30s to be quite reliable.
Anyone else?
here is a list of issues
http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/datacgi/database.cgi?file=articles&report=view&ID=00012&Section=14
The ETA engine (the "e" in "325e") is one of BMW's most durable engines IF the owner is reasonably conscientious about maintenance ESPECIALLY changing the cam belt every 50-60k miles.
One of its drawbacks is that the valves need adjusting every 20k miles or so.
Also, the car isn't exactly a "rocket" but it great for interstate trips, etc - great mileage, reasonably comfy ride.
The cars up to 87 were more reliable because they had a transfer pump in addition to the fuel pump. The 2 fuel pumps give the car positive starting and running. The single main fuel pump gets clogged at times...causing hard to start conditions. So you might want to take this into consideration.
87 is cars are the ones to look at...they are cheap nowadays and the only i car with dual fuel pumps.
Oil Leaks
Oil pressure sender
Pan gasket after 100K (leaks like pig)
Thermostat housing (to oil cooler)
Rubber half-moons under valve cover
Rear main seal on motor
Rear seal on tranny
Shifter shaft seal on tranny
Steering rack leaks
Check this by pinching each rubber boot and trying to rub the inner surfaces of the boot together. If this is hard to do, you're ok; Otherwise, the rack may need replacing due to leaking seals.
Replacing the tie rods with the rack is highly recommended
Cost (parts & labor)
dealer: $1000-1200
independent: $800-1000 (locale dependent)
This not a hard job for a reasonable competent weekend mechanic.
Parts from various aftermarket outlets run from $200 - $350 (rack)
and $80 - $125 (tie rods).
Car will need alignment after installation.
Front lower control arms and bushings
If these have never been changed or they were changed 100k miles ago, it could be time.
Symptoms - road handling/steering response seems sloppy / lacking in "crispness."
Costs:
dealer $400
independent: similar
This is a fairly straight-forward job. The only hard part is pressing the new bushings onto the control arms. A press is needed.
Parts, from the dealer (!) ran me $260, total, with my BMWCCA discount.
Guibo and center support bearing
The guibo is a rubber/metal "donut" at the output of the tranny:
Guibo showing several cracks
Its job is to "smooth-out" the slight variations in the engine/tranny output.
The drive shaft is a 2-piece shaft. The center support bearing does what its name implies.
Does the car clunk when you shift from first to second or second to third? Could be the guibo.
Costs:
dealer $160-200
independent: similar
With the engine off, jack-up one rear wheel. Rotate the tire and listen for a "squeaking" or grinding noise from the under the car.
Could be the center support bearing.
Cost:
dealer: $175 - 225 (?)
independent: similar
If you have to replace the guibo, replace the csb at the same time as the driveshaft has to come off for both procedures.
Gearbox
I assume it's a 5-speed. The tranny may be a Getrag 260. If it is (mine is) (green "do not change gear lube @1200 mile/2000km" sticker), it's near bullet-proof except for the 2nd gear synchro.
Driven with some care, it'll last forever. .
Clutch slave cylinder
About $25 front various suppliers.
Symptoms - you have to add brake fluid frequently (the brakes and the clutch hydraulics share a reservoir).
Also, the clutch may not always disengage fully or may feel soft.
Easy fix.
Clutch
Almost bullet-proof if you don't drag race. Of course, that's a futile undertaking with this car!
Cooling fan clutch
To save energy, the mechanical fan (as opposed to the electric fan) will spin at engine speed only when the engine (and therefore, the fan clutch) gets up to a certain temp.
Symptoms - in hot weather, while idling at a red light, the temp gauge will creep up towards the red zone.
How to check? With the engine hot, using a rolled-up newspaper, GENTLY try to stop the fan by pressing the side of paper roll against the MOVING (watch the fingers!!) fan. If it chews the paper, the clutch is probably ok.
Easy fix IF you've got access to a 32mm open end wrench! Part is about $70 from various suppliers.
Water pump
They seem to last 60k miles which is the mileage interval for changing the cam belt and tensioner!!! German engineering at its best!
Radiator
Many discussions about the merits/demerits of the Behr aluminum + plastic radiators. Check at the bottom of the radiator for leaks where the plastic side tanks and the aluminum core meet.
New radiator runs about $175.
Brakes
Reliable although some owners report warping rotors. Use AXXIS (formerly Repco) Metal Master pads - no dust, no squeal, good wear & performance.
Cost
$65 for all four wheels (from Imparts). Easy to install. Change the brake fluid yearly. I use Castrol LMA DOT 4.
Electrics
Reliable. There are 5 or 6 grounding points in the car which should be cleaned every 2 years or so.
Also, check for corrosion around AND under the battery platform in the trunk (!).
Trunk
Ensure the battery is vented to the outside. While in the trunk, check for evidence of leaking tail light gaskets (about $10 each side).
Have the strut cartridges and shocks been changed in the last 60k miles or so? Will affect handling, of course.
Rust
Rear license plate lights
Right rear wheel well - where fuel hose attaches: pull off right side trim in trunk and check out wheel well - mine had a 1" round hole right through!
Rocker panels at the vertical weld (near front of rocker)
Air Conditioner
Make sure it blows cold! otherwise $$$ for new A/C
Blower fan
Make sure all 4 speeds work
Central locks
Make sure they work properly
Use keys in all locks and make sure every lock can lock/unlock the car
Double lock the drivers door (make sure drivers door lock cylinder works)
When double locked check all other doors (should be impossible to open)
When double locked check trunk - should lock and unlock ok
Other Stuff
Shifter bushes gone at 100K
Control arm bushings shot
Head bolts (on the sixes)- look for the hex head, they'll need to be swapped for the torx
Transfer pump, listen for the main fuel pump to buzzzzz
Jerky Wipers
Dim OBC
SI board
Timing belt, tensioner, water pump every 50k if it's a six.
Thats all folks.
I really do like them:
I bought one of the first E30s in USA in 1984 and still drive it every day.
My E21 Calloway is a racer and the E24 is a tow mule for my Dyno.
Later,
http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/datacgi/database.cgi?file=articles&report=view&ID=00012&Section=14
The ETA engine (the "e" in "325e") is one of BMW's most durable engines IF the owner is reasonably conscientious about maintenance ESPECIALLY changing the cam belt every 50-60k miles.
One of its drawbacks is that the valves need adjusting every 20k miles or so.
Also, the car isn't exactly a "rocket" but it great for interstate trips, etc - great mileage, reasonably comfy ride.
The cars up to 87 were more reliable because they had a transfer pump in addition to the fuel pump. The 2 fuel pumps give the car positive starting and running. The single main fuel pump gets clogged at times...causing hard to start conditions. So you might want to take this into consideration.
87 is cars are the ones to look at...they are cheap nowadays and the only i car with dual fuel pumps.
Oil Leaks
Oil pressure sender
Pan gasket after 100K (leaks like pig)
Thermostat housing (to oil cooler)
Rubber half-moons under valve cover
Rear main seal on motor
Rear seal on tranny
Shifter shaft seal on tranny
Steering rack leaks
Check this by pinching each rubber boot and trying to rub the inner surfaces of the boot together. If this is hard to do, you're ok; Otherwise, the rack may need replacing due to leaking seals.
Replacing the tie rods with the rack is highly recommended
Cost (parts & labor)
dealer: $1000-1200
independent: $800-1000 (locale dependent)
This not a hard job for a reasonable competent weekend mechanic.
Parts from various aftermarket outlets run from $200 - $350 (rack)
and $80 - $125 (tie rods).
Car will need alignment after installation.
Front lower control arms and bushings
If these have never been changed or they were changed 100k miles ago, it could be time.
Symptoms - road handling/steering response seems sloppy / lacking in "crispness."
Costs:
dealer $400
independent: similar
This is a fairly straight-forward job. The only hard part is pressing the new bushings onto the control arms. A press is needed.
Parts, from the dealer (!) ran me $260, total, with my BMWCCA discount.
Guibo and center support bearing
The guibo is a rubber/metal "donut" at the output of the tranny:
Guibo showing several cracks
Its job is to "smooth-out" the slight variations in the engine/tranny output.
The drive shaft is a 2-piece shaft. The center support bearing does what its name implies.
Does the car clunk when you shift from first to second or second to third? Could be the guibo.
Costs:
dealer $160-200
independent: similar
With the engine off, jack-up one rear wheel. Rotate the tire and listen for a "squeaking" or grinding noise from the under the car.
Could be the center support bearing.
Cost:
dealer: $175 - 225 (?)
independent: similar
If you have to replace the guibo, replace the csb at the same time as the driveshaft has to come off for both procedures.
Gearbox
I assume it's a 5-speed. The tranny may be a Getrag 260. If it is (mine is) (green "do not change gear lube @1200 mile/2000km" sticker), it's near bullet-proof except for the 2nd gear synchro.
Driven with some care, it'll last forever. .
Clutch slave cylinder
About $25 front various suppliers.
Symptoms - you have to add brake fluid frequently (the brakes and the clutch hydraulics share a reservoir).
Also, the clutch may not always disengage fully or may feel soft.
Easy fix.
Clutch
Almost bullet-proof if you don't drag race. Of course, that's a futile undertaking with this car!
Cooling fan clutch
To save energy, the mechanical fan (as opposed to the electric fan) will spin at engine speed only when the engine (and therefore, the fan clutch) gets up to a certain temp.
Symptoms - in hot weather, while idling at a red light, the temp gauge will creep up towards the red zone.
How to check? With the engine hot, using a rolled-up newspaper, GENTLY try to stop the fan by pressing the side of paper roll against the MOVING (watch the fingers!!) fan. If it chews the paper, the clutch is probably ok.
Easy fix IF you've got access to a 32mm open end wrench! Part is about $70 from various suppliers.
Water pump
They seem to last 60k miles which is the mileage interval for changing the cam belt and tensioner!!! German engineering at its best!
Radiator
Many discussions about the merits/demerits of the Behr aluminum + plastic radiators. Check at the bottom of the radiator for leaks where the plastic side tanks and the aluminum core meet.
New radiator runs about $175.
Brakes
Reliable although some owners report warping rotors. Use AXXIS (formerly Repco) Metal Master pads - no dust, no squeal, good wear & performance.
Cost
$65 for all four wheels (from Imparts). Easy to install. Change the brake fluid yearly. I use Castrol LMA DOT 4.
Electrics
Reliable. There are 5 or 6 grounding points in the car which should be cleaned every 2 years or so.
Also, check for corrosion around AND under the battery platform in the trunk (!).
Trunk
Ensure the battery is vented to the outside. While in the trunk, check for evidence of leaking tail light gaskets (about $10 each side).
Have the strut cartridges and shocks been changed in the last 60k miles or so? Will affect handling, of course.
Rust
Rear license plate lights
Right rear wheel well - where fuel hose attaches: pull off right side trim in trunk and check out wheel well - mine had a 1" round hole right through!
Rocker panels at the vertical weld (near front of rocker)
Air Conditioner
Make sure it blows cold! otherwise $$$ for new A/C
Blower fan
Make sure all 4 speeds work
Central locks
Make sure they work properly
Use keys in all locks and make sure every lock can lock/unlock the car
Double lock the drivers door (make sure drivers door lock cylinder works)
When double locked check all other doors (should be impossible to open)
When double locked check trunk - should lock and unlock ok
Other Stuff
Shifter bushes gone at 100K
Control arm bushings shot
Head bolts (on the sixes)- look for the hex head, they'll need to be swapped for the torx
Transfer pump, listen for the main fuel pump to buzzzzz
Jerky Wipers
Dim OBC
SI board
Timing belt, tensioner, water pump every 50k if it's a six.
Thats all folks.
I really do like them:
I bought one of the first E30s in USA in 1984 and still drive it every day.
My E21 Calloway is a racer and the E24 is a tow mule for my Dyno.
Later,
Good rundown KC. Just add one item that I can think of, rear shock mounts. It is still a weak spot on new models as well. When upgrading upgrade to the latest model year (or billet) especially if installing new shocks. They are all direct drop ins. E36 cabrio mounts which I have in my '89 i cost about $50 from the dealer.