PLEASE HELP!! - clutch is gone!?

[siXtring]

- '97 328i, well kept and in good condition (till now)
- 96k on original clutch (as far as I know, I bought it used)

Okay, so I went out for lunch today and came back back to my office at around 3:30. I just got home so the car was sitting for 5 hours in the meantime. When I got in it to drive home, I noticed I was having trouble putting the car in rev or 1st gear. It went into rev after I had to mash it in gear (no grinding or anything though) and when I backed up I could feel a vibration in the clutch pedal and it felt like the clutch was slipping. I got out and looked to see if I was leaking fluid but didn't see anything. Driving home, the clutch was slipping so bad that it feels like it could go at any second.

I've never heard of a clutch dissappearing like this and it was fine this afternoon. The car has a few miles on it but I was expecting to be able to get AT LEAST another 10k out of it. It was in the shop a few months ago for a check up and they confirmed that the clutch wasn't brand new but was fine.

The only unusual thing that happened at lunch was that I was slowly going up a steep drive way that has a crown at the top. When I'm alone, I always clear it. My brother was with me though and I felt it bottom out a little so I backed up and went a different way. I don't see how this could have affected anything.

I figure I need a new clutch anyway but if any of you guys have a clue as to what the hell could have happened in the 5 hours the car sat parked I would love to hear it. Maybe I'll upgrade with a light fly wheel

Happy Holidays, and sorry for the long thread...

-James

 

[slickbrave]

I'm not a clutch expert, but could the slave cylinder cause behavior like this? It could go quickly like that. One piece of advice...don't let it go too long because I tried to limp one to the shop and ended up catching it on fire. Had to replace both flywheels, the slave cylinder, the rear crank seal, etc. ouch.

 

[frolf]

here is some great advice



when you clutch goes (mine went at 105k, thanks to previous owner no doubt) i replaced with OEM stuff because i needed a car fast. DO YOURSELF A HUGE HUGE HUGE FAVOR AND GET AN ALUMINUM LIGHTWEIGHT FLYWHEEL (SINGLE PIECE!!!!) AND A NICE CLUTCHDISC, it will cost the exact same amount, it will take a week to get the stuff ordered, but you will forever regret it if you go back to a dual mass flywheel like i did.

 

[siXtring]

Thanks for the advice fellas.

Frolf, where did you go for the clutch disk, which parts do you recomend? I saw a sport pressure plate on bavauto but my mechanic said not to bother. He claims he's got customers with superchargers that run on the factory clutch. He also said it's common for bmw clutches to finally break down in the course of a day.

JB

 

[siXtring]

DO YOURSELF A HUGE HUGE HUGE FAVOR AND GET AN ALUMINUM LIGHTWEIGHT FLYWHEEL (SINGLE PIECE!!!!) AND A NICE CLUTCHDISC, it will cost the exact same amount

I'd love to put a lightweight flywheel in, like a UUC but these things are at least $500 everywhere I've looked. If I'm gonna replace that baby NOW is the time to do it but at that price it ain't happenin'. If I'm on the wrong track, please help me out.

 

[frolf]

well think ahead, if you are ever going to have to replace the flywheel, dualmass are more money. sorry i'm stupid right now, i'll respond in greater detail after I get some sleep

 

[siXtring]

So....

I talked to my mechanic today (the car has been in the shop waiting since last friday). I had resigned myself to the fact that I was going to need a new clutch and that it would cost about $900 since I'm not prepared to get into it myself. Homeboy tells me that I need a new master cylinder as well as clutch slave, whatever, cost goes up to $1800.

I'm gonna stick with the original dual-mass fly wheel since at least THAT doesn't have to be replaced and the repairs are going to be a muthaf*cka already. So that's it...