OK, heres the info.. 1986 325es with the 2.7 liter engine, 90,000 miles, it's a one owner car (before me), ..But it hadn't been driven for ?? a year ?? when I acquired it. The car starts fine, sound good mechanically, but when you put a load on it, it cuts out horribly. bucks and coughs, etc.. I though that since it had been sitting maybe the feul was bad, filter clogged... ran the gas out of it, put a fresh tank of 93 and a new fuel filter in it, and the problem persists. The service indicator on the dash is on.. I dont have a code reader and I'm not completely famaliar with the engine control system on the car.. I am assuming it has something to do with the service light being on ? Or does that light come on at a certian interval automatically ? I havent checked the cap and rotor, i suppose it could be that as well.. I did pull one plug, it was dirty, but not too bad...The car is at home and I'm 3 hours away at school, otherwise I would have the time to figure it out on my own, but if anyone can point me in the right direction,,, maybe suggest a few things to check out, i would really appreciate the help. Thanks
Rough running, cutting out HELP
- Thread starter 86_325es
- Start date
OBD I so no codes
Yep it predates the codes.
The roughness can also be the sparkplug wires.
Quick test is open the hood after dark and look for cross sparks.
On the SI it is a little more complicated.
SI reset and batteries
With the ignition switch at (position two) and the engine not running, grounding pin seven #7 of the diagnostic connector to pin one #1 for approximately three (3) seconds will reset the oil service lights. Grounding pin seven #7 to pin one #1 for approximately twelve (12) seconds will do an inspection service reset.
More information.
http://www.specialistcarsbmw.co.uk/stevenage/service/service_lights.htm
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/reset1.gif
1. Ground
4. Temperature sensor
7. Reset
8. TDC sensor yellow
9. TDC sensor shield
10.TDC sensor black
11.Start signal
12.Alternator charging excitation voltage
13.Ignition coil
14.Alternator charging supply current
15.Oxygen Heater
It will signal an oil change need between 5k and 7k depending on your indicated speed since the last reset. It will signal stealer inspections at all the predesignated miles.
http://www.eskimo.com/~dalus/bmw/e36/electrical/e36_reset_service_lights.html
SI Board Swap Out
Last but not least - the SI Board. Above is a new SI Board with lithium batteries and below is the old one. Note the blown battery on the old SI Board (green circle). The light blue rectangle shows the actual service indicator LED's which appear on your dash display. These LED's are mounted on a separate circuit board which must be pulled out of the old SI Board and plugged into the new one. This is an easy task. The purple arrow shows the orientation of the SI Board relative to the driver.
If it fails to reset then you need batteries.
Varta battery 500RST OE part.
Radio Shack: part number 23-191: $6.49 for set of two; they come w/solder tabs on them.
1.2 volts / 700mAh
Charge fully B4 installation on SI board.
Consider mounting batteries "remotely" under dash, etc. in separate holder for easy removal in future (i.e. not pulling the console out and apart); you can buy a plastic holder at RS. Run leadwires from holder to SI board connections. Makes life easy if you ever need to replace batteries again.
From Radio Shack, get:
1) You'll need a twin AA battery holder ($3)
2) 2 AA NiCAD rechargeable batteries ($6)
Later,
Yep it predates the codes.
The roughness can also be the sparkplug wires.
Quick test is open the hood after dark and look for cross sparks.
On the SI it is a little more complicated.
SI reset and batteries
With the ignition switch at (position two) and the engine not running, grounding pin seven #7 of the diagnostic connector to pin one #1 for approximately three (3) seconds will reset the oil service lights. Grounding pin seven #7 to pin one #1 for approximately twelve (12) seconds will do an inspection service reset.
More information.
http://www.specialistcarsbmw.co.uk/stevenage/service/service_lights.htm
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/reset1.gif
1. Ground
4. Temperature sensor
7. Reset
8. TDC sensor yellow
9. TDC sensor shield
10.TDC sensor black
11.Start signal
12.Alternator charging excitation voltage
13.Ignition coil
14.Alternator charging supply current
15.Oxygen Heater
It will signal an oil change need between 5k and 7k depending on your indicated speed since the last reset. It will signal stealer inspections at all the predesignated miles.
http://www.eskimo.com/~dalus/bmw/e36/electrical/e36_reset_service_lights.html
SI Board Swap Out
Last but not least - the SI Board. Above is a new SI Board with lithium batteries and below is the old one. Note the blown battery on the old SI Board (green circle). The light blue rectangle shows the actual service indicator LED's which appear on your dash display. These LED's are mounted on a separate circuit board which must be pulled out of the old SI Board and plugged into the new one. This is an easy task. The purple arrow shows the orientation of the SI Board relative to the driver.
If it fails to reset then you need batteries.
Varta battery 500RST OE part.
Radio Shack: part number 23-191: $6.49 for set of two; they come w/solder tabs on them.
1.2 volts / 700mAh
Charge fully B4 installation on SI board.
Consider mounting batteries "remotely" under dash, etc. in separate holder for easy removal in future (i.e. not pulling the console out and apart); you can buy a plastic holder at RS. Run leadwires from holder to SI board connections. Makes life easy if you ever need to replace batteries again.
From Radio Shack, get:
1) You'll need a twin AA battery holder ($3)
2) 2 AA NiCAD rechargeable batteries ($6)
Later,
Thanks for the info Ron, I'll check that stuff out when I get a chance to do so. Normally I replace wires/plugs/filters/cap/rotor when I get a car with a few miles on it, when wires are 15 bucks its no big deal... but 100 $ or more a set as I'm sure you know, I'm gonna make sure I know what t he problem is before I start pouring money into it. Thanks agian for your info, as I really had no idea about whats actually going on with the lights.
klaus
klaus