to buff or not to buff?

fletch33

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Cincinnati
#1
i bought a 04 330ci (15,300 miles) about 4 moths ago and it wasnt very nice weather at the time and i actually didnt get to see the car in perfect condition but i looked as hard as i could for flaws and really didnt see any. once nice weather hit and i actually decided to uncover and drive it ;) i noticed that it has kind of a scratch but not into the paint that unfortunately runs from the front driver side fender, under the mirror, and extends to the rear fender. the car is black and to be honest nobody has noticed it until i pointed it out but i know its there and besides the standard front end tiny rock chips that are unavoidable from just regular driving it is perfect inside and out. the dealership offered to have it fixed and assured me it would come out and i believe that it will but i was warned it could leave swirl marks and even though they didnt mind fixing it they recommended i leave it alone to avoid the swirls.

i am just curious if anyone else with a black paint job has had this problem and what results have come from trying to fix it.

fyi - i cant even feel it with my fingernail.

thanks
 

olywamat

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austin
#2
Go For It!

The swirls are the result of someone not knowing what they are doing. Invest in a high quality variable speed polisher and do it yourself. Start out with 3M Perfect It III Rubbing Compound and follow up with 3M Perfect It Foam Pad Polishing Glaze. This last compound is made specifically for removing swirls on dark colored paint and will make your paint so friggin' glossy, the rest of your car will suddenly look dull and you'll end up doing the whole car.

I bought a Makita 9227 7" polisher ($179) a couple of years ago to buff out some scratches on my Suburban I received while off-roading through the bushes. It was the best money I've ever spent and very satisfying knowing that I produced such amazing results with my own efforts. I have done several cars since then for myself and some of my buddies. If you are a member of a club or have friends with an auto interest, pitch in and split the cost.

It is possible that you can burn through the paint if you are not careful. Holding the machine in one spot too long with too much pressure and too high a speed will get you into trouble real quick. Read the instructions!!! Also avoid panel edges (doors, hood, trunk lid, etc.) as this concentrates the friction in a small area. As dangerous as this sounds, I was a COMPLETE novice when I did my Suburban, and after 8 or 10 vehicles, I have never burned the paint on any one of them. I would HIGHLY recommend that you get some practice on a car you are not in love with. That '93 Volvo sitting in the driveway is a prime candidate. The worse looking and more faded the paint, the better the results will be.

If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, talk to a reputable, high-end body shop. If they use the right compounds you will be swirl free and have the best looking black bimmer around.

There is nothing better than a nice black paint job. GO FOR IT!
 

olywamat

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austin
#3
I should add that you can achieve the same results by hand with a little more elbow grease. If you cannot feel the scratch with your fingernail, it has only scuffed the surface of the clearcoat and will polish out very easily using a fine grit rubbing compound followed by wax. But owning a black car, you will want to do the whole car every couple of years to keep it looking new. Buffing a whole car by hand is a TON of work.

Remember, you will want to re-wax your car with a high quality carnuba wax after buffing it out.
 
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Location
Los Angeles, CA
#4
a friend who is a semi-pro detailer recommended the Porter 7424 to me. he said that this model rotary is safer than others and is good for beginners- namely because it never reaches rotational speeds high enough to burn through clearcoat or paint. obviously though, good common sense is necessary, regardless. (example: if u put on an abrasive pad- which u shouldn't ever- u could do damage even at low rotational speeds.) http://www.autogeek.net/po.html

i've been learning how to detail using the sonus sfx products, as the 3m stuff tends to be slightly more abrasive from the get-go, and it's best to go gentle and gradually polish out imperfections rather than all-at-once. it's tiring, but fun and rewarding to see a nice shiny car afterwards. gl
 

fletch33

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Cincinnati
#5
thanks for all the great information and i happen to have my 00 dodge truck in my driveway ;) that will be the perfect tester since i wouldnt be too upset if i happen to make a boo boo while learning the ropes.

this forum has been very helpful and i appreciate all the help.
 
Last edited:

Big Daddy

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PNW (Left) Coast
#6
I have a Cosmos Black M roadster and had a Jet Black 750iL, never touched either with a rotary buffer! I am not saying that it does not work for others, just not necesssary and can get you in trouble. One of the causes of swril marks is circular motion. I use Zymol products, starting with a good wash and dry I than apply HD Cleanse, a pre-wax cleaner and light scratch remover, followed by Concours wax (about $164.00 per tub) or use Carbon for about $64.00 per tub. (If you need you can clay the car to remove grit and minor surface imperfections. I do this every two to three years as needed.) Zymol will tell you to use straight lines NOT circular "wax on wax off motions". I have followed and used their products for over 20 years and get compliments on my cars paint every day. Zymol

98 M roadster


91 750iL, note very cute grandson standing by car!
 


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