Wheel stud crisis

[helmus]

hey all. i'm in a bit of a pickle. i've stripped the splines of the security stud on one of my wheels. the jackass who put the wheel on last obviously didnt believe in a torque wrench as i had to use a 2ft pipe to break the others fee. so, i drilled a hole about an inch into the centre of the stud, and used a 3/8 EasyOut to try to crack it that way, but of course , it broke off. anybody have any idea's? thanks

elmer

 

[Kirby]

By removing the other bolts. part of the problem is that single stud is now under ADDITIONAL pressure, the pressure that the other studs created when they were torqued down. That's why the general procedure is to loosen all studs 1/4 - 1/2 turn before removing them compeletely.

If you can't get the EZ Out out, I can only think of two other possibilities.

1 - Try to drill the rest of the stud head until it is destroyed or just breaks. Easier said than done.

2 - Use an oxyacetylene torch or Dremel type tool to cut the head off (caution, a torch might damage the wheel). Once you get the head cut off and the wheel is off, there should be enough stud left to remove it with a pair of vise grips.

 

[Big Daddy]

I agree with Kirby, when using a tourch be very careful. You could also weld a piece of metal to the stud and use it as a handle?

 

[William330]

Sears probably has a bolt splitter that would work.

 

[epj3]

Don't use a torch! PB Blaster works miracles and won't mess up your wheel. PB blaster is like wd-40, only smellier and much much much much much better. Autozone has it.

 

[Kirby]

I think the wheel is still on the car, how could he get a bolt splitter on the stud? If he can get anther EZ Out in the stud, PB Blaster and retorquing the other bolts might get him what he needs.

I like Dan's comment, welding to the stud would be safer than torching it.

 

[William330]

If something like this won't fit onto the nut:

http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/7475/cid/1875

Then try using a Dremel tool (tiny grinder) to grind two flat spots (one on each side)
of the nut, so you can get a wrench on there, and get that bugger off.

Lots of bolt loosening fluid as suggested would hopefully motivate that baby to come off.

 

[helmus]

thanks guys. i was thinking about actually welding the security key onto the stud, but am worried about the arcing screwing up my ECU or other electronics in the car. is there a chance of this happening do u think?

 

[Big Daddy]

Yes, disconnect the battery before welding on the car.

 

[Kirby]

Dan's right, and if you want to be uber safe, disconnect the plug at the ECU. Also, you need to get the welder's ground clamp on the rotor or hub. I think you'll have issues if you ground on the frame because of the grease on the wheel bearings. You'll have a very poor ground due to the grease, it might actually arc across the bearing/race, and that would suck...!