Help Needed: '01 3-Series, Control Arm Bushings, VA State Inspection

[jvp]

Hey folks -

I'm a total newbie here, and, in fact, don't even own a Bimmer. I'm writing on behalf of a close friend who does though. Her 3-series is at a local, will-remain-unnamed Bimmer dealer for a Virginia state safety inspection. They've failed her car due to the control arm bushings. They want to charge her $200 for the parts and another $350 for the labor to swap them.

Now, in reading through this forum, it seems that everyone agrees: that price is ridiculously high. I have a few questions for the collective brain here:

1. Is there a place in Northern VA that folks would recommend she take her car to to get this done, at a much more reasonable price? I'd do it for her, as I actually have a lift in my garage and like busting knuckles. But, I suspect control arm bushings are a bit outside my skillsets. ;-)

2. Were she to try and purchase the parts herself so that she'd only have to pay a 3rd party for labor, what would she need to get? Any recommendations on where she should get them from?

3. Any other suggestions or help?

Thanks much guys!

jas

 

[Kirby]

Welcome!

Can't help with question 1, but for question 2:

BAVAUTO.COM and AUTOHAUSAZ.COM have the front bushings for about $89. I and many others here have dealt with both, they are good, reputable companies.

The question is what else it might need. We'll have to assume they are not replacing the control arms? But FYI, on bimmers, the ball joint is not replaceable, so the entire control arm gets replaced, but the $200 mark she was quoted is a too low for dealer price on bushings AND control arms. So I guess it is just the bushings.

Are they going to align it for that money? If so, it's high but not totally out of line $$$$ on labor. I would guess that an indy would do the labor for about $200 + alignment?

Here is what they look like. The hardest part is getting the new bushings over the end of the control arm.

 

[jvp]

BAVAUTO.COM and AUTOHAUSAZ.COM have the front bushings for about $89. I and many others here have dealt with both, they are good, reputable companies.

Thanks. I'll pass the info along. Now, again pardon the potentially clueless question, but what about the rear? Does the rear also use control arms? Or is it some other type of suspension?

Are they going to align it for that money? If so, it's high but not totally out of line $$$$ on labor. I would guess that an indy would do the labor for about $200 + alignment?

Unknown, unfortunately, since I wasn't there to talk to the Bimmer rep directly.

Thanks for the info!

jas

 

[gpoints]

How many miles on the car? Usually, it's the rear trailing arm bushings (RTAB) that fail on the e46. In fact, they usually fail before 50K miles.
Are you sure it's the control arm bushing and not the rear trailing arm bushings?

 

[jvp]

How many miles on the car? Usually, it's the rear trailing arm bushings (RTAB) that fail on the e46. In fact, they usually fail before 50K miles.
Are you sure it's the control arm bushing and not the rear trailing arm bushings?

I honestly do not know. Again, I wasn't there, and I haven't seen the underside of the car yet. The mileage is almost at 100K.

jas

 

[gpoints]

Hopefully, the problem is the RTAB's as they're really not that difficult to replace. An alignment is required after the repair though. Is she seeing any excessive wear on the rear tires?

 

[Kirby]

Thanks. I'll pass the info along. Now, again pardon the potentially clueless question, but what about the rear? Does the rear also use control arms? Or is it some other type of suspension?

jas

As gpoints implied, the rear has a similar arm & bushings, but it's called the trailing arm and rear trailing arm bushings. So if they said control arms, it's most likely the front.

100K miles is fair game for Control Arm bushings. They frequently develop small stress cracks by this time. Not really dangerous, but a strict inspection shop could get away with failing them.

Control arm bushings are visible for inspection, RTABs are not. The only way to identify a failed RTAB is by excessive play, or removal of the bushing just to inspect it. Tire wear is a possible indicator, but tire wear could also just be bad alignment.