cold morning start problem

orics3200 · May 1, 2005

yup" I changed my ignition coil on cylinder 4 were the mis firing occurs and I also change my 6 connectors and 6 spark plugs with BOSCH. Right now, its been 2 months with no misfire or cold start problem problem in the morning. Im happy w/ the results.

And, I also changed motor oil from BMW 5w30 to Mobil 0w40. I think it helps a lot on the cold start problem.

I hope this would help...

GOOD LUCK.

orics

aNoodle · May 1, 2005

orics3200 said:

Damn...so I have to change coils, connectors and plugs? I just changed my plugs myself 40,000 miles ago.

How expensive were the connectors? Are the connectors just above the spark plugs? I can definitely do this myself if it's all right there on top. So you just had one ignition coil replaced?

I suppose I could do the plugs and connectors (if they aren't too expensive) and just see if that might help. Did you do any of this yourself?

BTW I tried the 0w-40 in my 2.8L engine but found I was having to top off, I've never had to top off when using other weights.

orics3200 · May 17, 2005

nop, you don't have to change the entire 6 ignition coils Only change the one that is misfiring. In my case the 4th cylinder. Connectors are cheap only $6.00.

good luck...

orics

jt88488 · Mar 8, 2006

Re: Idle problem at cold starts & stalls
1999 328i (e46 - automatic), 108,000 miles

Let me share a similar situation and hope someone puts this information to good use. When I start my car first thing in the morning, it starts fine, then after several seconds the idle problems starts, the rpm’s drops from 1000 down to 500, goes back up then drops down again before eventually stalling. Start it up again and once the car warms up the problem goes away for the rest of the day. I recently purchased this car and looks as though its been this way for a while. A week later, the ses triggered and after taking it to the shop, they identified fault code 1-activation, ignition, cyl 2. They explained that the crankcase vent valve + hoses needed to be replaced.
Crankcase vent valve (pressure regulating valve) #11617501566 part $43.50; vent pipe #11611432559 part $22.00 ; vent hose #11157532649 part $9.70 ; connecting line #11611440317 part $28.75; labor $300

After putting out $450, it didn’t fix my original idle problem. I took it back to have them look at it again, then they came back with Idle air valve (t-shape idle regulating valve) #13411744713 part $180. I wasn’t going to fall for it twice so I got a second opinion. This time I had honest guy really diagnose the problem by ruling out everything from vacuum hose leaks #51731470035, idle air valve, throttle body (throttle housing assembly) #13541433414. The guy explained that he was puzzled since it wasn’t throwing out any codes. But, eventually, the answer surfaced, it’s the VANOS.

VANOS assembly (RMFD Adjustment Unit) or variable camshaft control (Variable Nocken-Steuerung or Variable Nockenwellen-Steuerung) #11361440142 part $475/labor $500.

Now, I forked out $1000, and the idle problem is finally fixed. Mornings start-up are great. Looks like in 99 the manufacturers switched from a single vanos to a double vanos and there must be a faulty part incased in the unit. I’ve heard this being the problem on more current models with lower mileage as well. Hope this information helps.

Regards,

JT

ps: I also read in another thread that someone resolved this with a solution on BMW bulletin, with a software upgrade. Didn't try this since I read it after replacing the vanos.

epj3 · Mar 8, 2006

jt88488 said:

Re: Idle problem at cold starts & stalls
1999 328i (e46 - automatic), 108,000 miles

Let me share a similar situation and hope someone puts this information to good use. When I start my car first thing in the morning, it starts fine, then after several seconds the idle problems starts, the rpm’s drops from 1000 down to 500, goes back up then drops down again before eventually stalling. Start it up again and once the car warms up the problem goes away for the rest of the day. I recently purchased this car and looks as though its been this way for a while. A week later, the ses triggered and after taking it to the shop, they identified fault code 1-activation, ignition, cyl 2. They explained that the crankcase vent valve + hoses needed to be replaced.
Crankcase vent valve (pressure regulating valve) #11617501566 part $43.50; vent pipe #11611432559 part $22.00 ; vent hose #11157532649 part $9.70 ; connecting line #11611440317 part $28.75; labor $300

After putting out $450, it didn’t fix my original idle problem. I took it back to have them look at it again, then they came back with Idle air valve (t-shape idle regulating valve) #13411744713 part $180. I wasn’t going to fall for it twice so I got a second opinion. This time I had honest guy really diagnose the problem by ruling out everything from vacuum hose leaks #51731470035, idle air valve, throttle body (throttle housing assembly) #13541433414. The guy explained that he was puzzled since it wasn’t throwing out any codes. But, eventually, the answer surfaced, it’s the VANOS.

VANOS assembly (RMFD Adjustment Unit) or variable camshaft control (Variable Nocken-Steuerung or Variable Nockenwellen-Steuerung) #11361440142 part $475/labor $500.

Now, I forked out $1000, and the idle problem is finally fixed. Mornings start-up are great. Looks like in 99 the manufacturers switched from a single vanos to a double vanos and there must be a faulty part incased in the unit. I’ve heard this being the problem on more current models with lower mileage as well. Hope this information helps.

Regards,

JT

ps: I also read in another thread that someone resolved this with a solution on BMW bulletin, with a software upgrade. Didn't try this since I read it after replacing the vanos.

Man your spamming this shit is awfully annoying.

cold morning start problem

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