Fuse for DRL's?

GGM

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#22
ahhh i see what they look like. maybe bmwrocks, if you have a chance to see what the power is that would be great, i don't think i have access to any of the tools to read it myself.
With the dealer not doing it theres not really another solution it looks like. pardi you'll be having fun next month like me lol
 
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#26
I have the DRL enabled, I thought it was a low voltage applied to the high beams? Maybe I'm wrong, but if this is the case, then you would be losing your high beams.....

If it is a separate bulb, using a resistor is the right idea but there are some things to consider. Determine the wattage rating of the bulb - let's say it's 10 watts. To completely mimic the light bulb you will need a 10 watt resistor. If you measure the bulb resistance and use an equivalent 1/4 watt Radio Shack resistor, it will VAPORIZE as soon as power is applied. 10 watt resistors are MUCH bigger and harder to find.

In short, the resistor will need a wattage rating equal to or greater than the bulb. And the resistor WILL get hot, just as the bulb gets hot. Remember that a light bulb is REALLY a resistor that just happens to emit light as a by-product.
 

bmwrocks

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#27
pardi said:
Thanks bmwrocks. Btw I suppose we also need to find bulb sockets to hold the resistor(s) in place.
I was thinking about this.....You can insert the resistor into the connector (the female end with the wires) unplugged on the outside of the light assembly housing. Then you need to do a good job of weatherproofing the connector you just put the resistor into, and the male you just unplugged it from.

The best solution for the male would be to get another OEM female to plug into the empty male for weatherproofing. You could look into buying those from the dealer parts department.
 

bmwrocks

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#28
Kirby said:
I have the DRL enabled, I thought it was a low voltage applied to the high beams? Maybe I'm wrong, but if this is the case, then you would be losing your high beams.....

If it is a separate bulb, using a resistor is the right idea but there are some things to consider. Determine the wattage rating of the bulb - let's say it's 10 watts. To completely mimic the light bulb you will need a 10 watt resistor. If you measure the bulb resistance and use an equivalent 1/4 watt Radio Shack resistor, it will VAPORIZE as soon as power is applied. 10 watt resistors are MUCH bigger and harder to find.

In short, the resistor will need a wattage rating equal to or greater than the bulb. And the resistor WILL get hot, just as the bulb gets hot. Remember that a light bulb is REALLY a resistor that just happens to emit light as a by-product.
The bulb is rated at 55W, I think you have just thrown the wrench into the works we've been wondering about......
 


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