HK sound system

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#21
The bass/treble balance was adjusted at the crossovers and on the amp- this was done at the shop with me listening so it is how I like it (I like just enough bass for filler and to hear all of the instruments, but not too much that people hear boom boom when I drive by ;-)

I can still adjust treble/bass on the deck (and make it boom if I like) but since it does not have an EQ it is not 'fully' adjustable. This is the small price you will pay for keeping the factory look. No matter, the sound is incredible.

Hope this helps-
 
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#22
Yeah it does... here is another question for you.. I was also thinking about keeping the factory deck.. Yet you know the space under the climate control and deck there is that little storage box that you can flip open ... I was thinkin about putting a Fully ajustable EQ in there so I can adjust everything and just have that flip down to cover it... good idea or no?
 
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Austin
#23
3ForTheRoad said:
The bass/treble balance was adjusted at the crossovers and on the amp- this was done at the shop with me listening so it is how I like it (I like just enough bass for filler and to hear all of the instruments, but not too much that people hear boom boom when I drive by ;-)

I can still adjust treble/bass on the deck (and make it boom if I like) but since it does not have an EQ it is not 'fully' adjustable. This is the small price you will pay for keeping the factory look. No matter, the sound is incredible.

Hope this helps-
I'm picking up my new (used) 323 on Friday finally...which does have the HK in it, but plan on modifying it a bit for my liking. Anyone know where the amps are stored on the system?

Are they in the trunk?

worm
 
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Santa Clara, CA
#24
3ForTheRoad -

Awesome information. Wish this was up earlier. Do you have any pictures of your sub in the back? If so, please post or send them to me. I'm on a tight budget, so I'm looking to first buy AMP and Sub and then add speakers later.

Couple of questions:
- did you do the install youself and if so, did you use any other resources/instructions?
- how does sub sound get from trunk to cabin? I've heard you have to either leave armrest down with access point open or lower one of the seats....posting pict would also answer this question
- what third party connectors did you use?
- where did you put the amp?

-Stink
 
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Frederick, MD
#28
stealthbox

My friend bought a stealthbox for his camaro. It sounds soo awesome. He has a 99 camaro that came with a 200 watt stereo. He installed a stealthbox and amp and the sounds system sounds better than anything i ever heard. he kept the stock radio and speakers.

however, he spent $1500 for the amp and stealthbox....

i'm getting the nav system so even if i wanted to change the head unit i couldn't.

i think the first thing you should invest in is the subwoofer and amp for it. replace the stock speakers later.

i'm sure the upgraded HK system is decent. However, being human i always want more. more sound, more bass, more speed, more torque, more money, etc. [:)]

Does anyone know how much the stealthboxes run for BMW?
 
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#29
oh and

btw, i already have an awesome home system... not much more i want to do there. now it's time to beef up the new car whenever that comes in.

i currently drive a pontiac ws6 trans am. it comes with a 500 watt monsoon system. and it sounds decent to me. however, it rattles the car and that drives me nuts.
 
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#30
Wretchy,
Yeah, you might be able to put an EQ in the ashtray location. You’d have to remove it and see what kind of clearance you have behind. I did see a pretty cool idea with an Dension DMP3 jukebox ‘satelite’ controller in there- follow the link and then click ‘accessories and packages’ at the bottom to see the satellite control unit.

http://www.dension.com/index.dw?oldal=2&nyelv_id=2#dmp3a

…although I prefer the factory 3-series integration of steering wheel and head unit controls of the Phatnoise MP3 PhatBox
http://www.phatnoise.com
In fact the device tricks your system into thinking it is the factory CD changer and the PhatBox is coded to integrate selection of songs by use of global as well as in-directory random selection, songs by track name, genre, playlists ect by the 1-5 numbers on your factory head unit. I would probably install it under the rear deck lid in the trunk, where the factory ‘sub’ used to be, and where it will be easy to ‘grab and go’ with the hard drive.

Just ideas…
 
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#31
Big Worm,
Yeah the factory amp is installed in the trunk as are the crossovers and sub, all of which you will want to junk, oops I mean replace ;-)
Actually this is unfortunately true…
If you replace anything in the 3-series’ “speaker/amp/sub” system, you have to replace it all.
If you want some technicals- these particular factory pieces are 2 ohm…
(Read: about the closest you can get to a short circuit- and are not compatible with anything besides each other)

You will want to replace all of these pieces as a package so chose your new system as a package.

You will need an AMP to operate any new speakers and get a good one (at least 40 RMSx4 and 200 for the sub is great).
Some have 5 channel, if so get at least 200 RMS for the sub. You can get a separate amp for the sub, esp. if you want to add one later…

I got a $550 Kenwood Excelon 650 with 50 watts RMSx4 + 200 to the sub for 285+30 shipping (brand new) on eBay…
If you look into a sub, also consider its signal to noise ratio, adjustability, and most important, RMS, NOT peak power rating.
This one is pretty darn good in all respects.

Then good COMPONENT SPEAKERS for the front (separate mid range and tweaters on separate crossovers ;-)

I like Kenwood Excelons for about 200 bucks:
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/product/p...2&sortBy=price&productLineId=1&productId=2429

Or…
Infiniti Kappas for about 300 bucks:
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-F3IW9JG9NVv/ProdView.asp?s=0&cc=01&c=10&g=410&I=108K505CS+

Or…
Diamond Audio Hexes for about 500 bucks:
http://www.diamondaudio.com/MobileAudio/index.cfm?page=Speakers

All I can say, whatever you’ve got to spend, THROW IT IN YOUR AMP AND FRONT SPEAKERS!

I got a Diamond SUB in a custom box for a hundred bucks but I got a phenomenal deal (about 1/3 price)…
I’d suggest an alpine 10” sub in ported and tuned box- ebay $160, local shops $280+, on sale- who knows?

Again, spend heavy on these 3 parts (AMP, FRONT COMPONENTS, SUB) and you won’t be disappointed.
Ok I’m done yelling [:)]

These are the most important pieces to the sound quality and you can’t really skimp on any of them if you want good sound.

Later I’d add coaxials to the rear- I got Diamond M351i speakers for about $200.
Remember, rear speakers are just filler so if you are going to skimp a little, do it here.

Good luck[thumb]
 
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#32
Stinkfinger,
Check out the thread above and the pics you requested attached.
And in answer to your question- I had Magnolia HiFi do the work and they will only do the work if you get MOST of your parts from them and YES you can haggle those guys down a lot btw.

I got my speakers and sub from them.
I got my Dynamat Extreme on eBay and for the price of a two door package ($60) I got a bulk pack with enough Dynamat to do the whole car ;-)
And I got my amp on eBay for almost half price $300 (see above for specs).

I wouldn’t get speakers on eBay though, as they Wear Out and you don’t know if they are already shot…
And besides you have to buy ‘something’ from the local shop to get them to do the proper install job for you ;-)

Just ideas…

Oh and in answer to your last question-
I would skip on the 6” subs in the rear decklid corners…
Sorry, I heard the difference between a very good 6” and a mid range 10” and you just can’t “push air” with a 6” and that’s basically a subs job right?
And keep in mind two sixes are not equal to a 12, rather they are equal to a good 8.

Plus you really should have speakers in those locations for fullest sound, and remember- those JLs are Woofers so you will lose some fullness to the sound…
Only do this if you are completely allergic to a box in the trunk.
I thought I’d mind it too, but actually it comes out so easily it doesn’t bother me at all when I need the full trunk space, I just pull it out (again, see pics)…

And finally- my system is (or WAS) a 2002 so-called ‘Premium’ (yeah right) HK system/
With DSP? not sure…

Again, it took me 4 months to figure all this stuff out so I hope it helps someone.
Good luck-
 
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#34
Thanks 3 -

Awesome info. I'm probably looking to do this around xmas time, so I might start looking at certain parts soon to get best price - shop around, etc.

I'll let you know how it goes.

-Stink
 
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#35
Wretchy,
I had Magnolia Hi-Fi install the stereo since I was afraid of damaging the interior panels and/or electrical system.

What I can share is that the new amp cannot be connected concurrently with the existing system. You must replace all of the speakers/amp/ and factory 'sub' at once.

Since the factory system is 2 ohms, you cannot hook up a new amp to that system and have it work. Your amp will be blown by your factory speakers which will have too much resistance...

So in answer to your question, no you cannot hook up a new amp to use with say an added sub or to upgrade power your existing speakers.

If you upgrade you will have to do the amp/speakers/sub in one move and since all of these pieces on the HK system are completely junk, you won’t miss any of them ;-)

The only thing you can keep if you decide to upgrade is the factory head unit (deck), which I chose to do to keep it completely factory looking.

Good luck-
 
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#38
dammit 3 for the road I know that.... I asked you if the factory deck has aux outputs for subs... or do I use the same outputs at the "subs ( 5x7 's ) that the old deck used?
 

William330

Active Member
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#39
Tom said:
I believe the Harmon Kardon has 320 watts.
Perhaps "on paper", but it certainly doesn't sound like it.

I used to run two 30WPC seperate amps into Boston Acoustic 767s, and the performance blew away the BMW HK stereo (total cost for amps and speakers was about $400).

The BMW HK system is OK if you'd rather avoid tearing up the car with wires, etc.

I think BMW could have provided a better sound system, the HK must be about 95% profit for BMW.
 

William330

Active Member
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#40
Just to add, after reading more articles in the thread, adding a
better sound system does not mean changing the stock
appearance.

It all depends on the installation.

Some installs have giant subwoofer boxes and neon lights, and
some installs are undectable from factory look, even if you are
sitting in the car (provided you use the BMW head-unit already in
the dashboard).

The thing to change, is seperate amplifiers, and better speakers
that are the same exact size as the factory speakers. Leave the
BMW head-unit in place to maintain factory appearance/stealth
from thieves.

Most any competent car audio dealer can accomplish this.

My last car had $3,000 worth of audio gear, and you could not
detect it was there -- everything was hidden behind original
factory speaker grills and under the seats.

"Diamond" speakers don't ring a bell, and I've been into high end
audio for a long while. Paper cones are not necessarily a problem
by themselves, nor are built-in crossovers.

Some of the best car speaker brands are:

MB Quart (made in Germany)
http://www.mbquart.com

Boston Acoustics (made in USA)
http://www.bostonacoustics.com/ca_products.asp?CategoryID=14


JBL, Pioneer, and most other brands available in Best Buy are
junk. Look in the phone book for a car audio dealer to find MB
Quart or Boston Acoustics. Infinity, Polk, etc, are OK. MB Quart
and Boston Acoustics are better, though.

I am staying with the BMW HK system for now; it's OK. I think I
may swap out the speakers first, see how that sounds, then add
seperate amplifiers later.

A good car stereo has nothing to do with subwoofers, heavy
bass or boom-boom-boom. The higher fidelity and mid-range
"punch" from quality speakers, with adequate power, is a world
of difference from stock audio systems.

A quality car stereo is really enjoyable, so I miss having the old
system sometimes. But I think one can install an "invisible"
quality audio system in a BMW for $600-800.
 


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