Newbie in the building

[bmd2ba]

I recently jumped into the BMW Ownership club with the purchase of my 1991 318i Cabriolet. The dealer had a garage that checked it out. I took it to a different garage to get their opinion, and the dealer sent it to a 3rd garage for state inspection. All involved said it was a good investment, and the car's in great shape (and LOADS of fun to drive!!)

I have some problems/questions I would like some of your opinions and experiences on...
1. It wobbles at certain speeds like it needs balancing or has frame damage. The (non-BMW) garage says BMW's are notorious for the wobble, there's no frame damage and doesn't need to be balanced.
2. Power window issues. I bought it with the passenger window inoperable. Likely source of problems? Then on the ride home last night I lost power to the whole power window control console (lighted switches went dead, windows stuck where they are, 3 up 1 down). Lockout-switch problem? Fuse problem? Short circuit? Common problem?
3. What determines the inspection scale at bottom of instrument cluster? time? miles? problems? (i.e., how often am I going to take it in so the yellow light stops glaring at me!?)
4. Has anyone out there retrofit a remote door unlocker onto a power lock system like on this car (can't recall their name for it, but read it in the manual).

Right now, the car is great fun, with more potential. Looks like the big things are good and strong, just dealing with the small irritations that can be part of any used car "compromise". Overall, love my taste of the Beemer-owning (or Bimmer-owning) experience!!!

Thanks for your help!

<signature to be determined>

 

[Ryan Stewart]

Prologue: Welcome, enjoy your stay. There are many incredibly helpful forums dedicated to maintaining and modifying E30s, more information than any other type of Bimmer.

1. Old BMWs are notorious for wobble, but its curable. Start with tire balance then check all ball joints an bushings. Mine did it 85-88 and it took new ball joints to solve it. That is a lot of money for a little wobble, that is why a lot of people just deal with it.

2. One dead power window is usually a regulator. When all are dead either its the last pushbutton on the console above the radiator or a fuse. If a fuse looks OK go ahead and replacve it just to be safe. I have had fuses look fine but not work.

3. A lot of things determine the inspection indicator, like how you drive and such. THe oil one should be every 5-7000 miles while the inspection is a LONG time, like 40,000+. You can have the mechanic reset it, buy a reset tool for $80, or make your own for .40.

4. I have a Viper 300esp, there are many to work. I think this is one of the best inventions next to the garage door opener. Eays install, wire colors are available at the12volt.com


Just keep in mind that owning and maintaining a used car is almost always more cost effective than owning a new one. There is a lot you can do to make your 318 handle and look better easily, unfotunately making it fast is another matter.

 

[Tom]

Welcome aboard and congrats.

1. It wobbles at certain speeds like it needs balancing or has frame damage. The (non-BMW) garage says BMW's are notorious for the wobble, there's no frame damage and doesn't need to be balanced.
Tires probably needs balancing, if they look worn then its time to replace them.


2. Power window issues. I bought it with the passenger window inoperable. Likely source of problems? Then on the ride home last night I lost power to the whole power window control console (lighted switches went dead, windows stuck where they are, 3 up 1 down). Lockout-switch problem? Fuse problem? Short circuit? Common problem?
Could just be a fuse or motor problem.

3. What determines the inspection scale at bottom of instrument cluster? time? miles? problems? (i.e., how often am I going to take it in so the yellow light stops glaring at me!?)
I believe its speed and distance.

4. Has anyone out there retrofit a remote door unlocker onto a power lock system like on this car (can't recall their name for it, but read it in the manual).
Try doing a search on ebay for keyless entry, or get yourself an alarm and it should be included.

 

[rjp325i]

Stellar is one of several remote entry systems available. This one is available with or without an alarm system and remote trunk unlock as well as one touch window closing and sunroof opening/closing. These are available as plug ins to the base module and can be installed at a later date if desired. I got mine at www.bavauto.com. Other dealers also carry this brand (Aotoloc) and sometimes put their name on it. Hoffman Automotive Accessories in OR is the company than warrantees the product. It is mfg in the USA. They also have a website (www.autoloc.com). I found the price to be slightly cheaper thru Bavarian Autosport and BMP Design. The system ties into the trunk module or the drivers side kick panel and comes with instructions. On the down side the double lock feature does not operate with this system unless you use the key. I was told that this is due to the lock design and that the other systems cannot do it either so single locking is the norm unless you need the added security in less desireable parking areas then lock it manually as before when needed. If you go this route, you will have to splice in wires because only later E36 cars have the type you just plug in.

 

[rjp325i]

Wobble was primarily a condition found in E21 BMWs. I would definitely check out the ball joints and control arm bushings. If the control arm bushings have to be replaced use the offset type for better high speed stability. They are used on the 1988 M3 and the same ones can be used on other E30s. You can buy aftermarket or factory M3 offset bushings.

 

[bmd2ba]

small update

The 3 windows that worked before work again (sort of) now that I replaced the window fuse. Unfortunately, as soon as I put the driver's side window up, it blows the fuse again (that would be the sort of). Provided I can get to the switches, I'm going to try switches in different posistions to determine if it's the switches or the motors.

I've never been a "do it yourself" kind of person, but this car (and BMW's labor charges) suggest that this would be an excellent opportunity to start (i.e., last night was the first time I changed a fuse... isn't that sad??). So until we get someone on here who knows less than I do, I'll be doing more questions than answers.

Second round of questions...
1.Whoever had the car before me ruined (among many things) the owner's manual. Is there by any chance one available online, like in a .PDF, or one that someone has lying around? (1991 E30 318i conv).

2. Is there a trick to removing the console that the window switches/gear shift/ashtray is in? It wiggles and jiggles, but I have a nice collection of broken trim pieces from the last owner who used brute force to remove pieces, and I'd rather not add to it.

3. The trim panels by the backseat that cover the speakers will not stay on. The clips are broken, and I've tried various types of double-sided tape. I'm refraining from using glue because the speakers are there, and I will probably need access to them in the future. Actually, it's only the passenger side one, as the latch that releases the convertible top compartment holds the driver side panel pretty well.

4. It sounds like the front driverside wheel is loud when driving next to a curb or parked cars (where the sound bounces back). I can't describe the sound, but if I couple that with the earlier-described wobble, would that imply that the wheel or rotor is the likely culprit of both problems?

5. All of the available repair manuals seem to pretend that BMW didn't make a 318 in 1991. What's up with that??

I really appreciate your help, and I'm sorry I don't have much yet to contribute in return but my undying thanks and respect.

<picture pending>

 

[mytan85_325e]

Welcome, an E30 Cabrio is my next purchase!!!!

 

[rjp325i]

My Bentley manual states thru 1990 with its inclusions but not the later 318. I don't believe there is much of a difference between 1990 and 1991 for the rest of the car. Does anyone else know? This manual will help you with car (other than the motor) immensely. The 318 I had was a 1985 and I have a factory loose leaf manual. They no longer have available factory manuals so I have a Bentley for my 89 325i. If you are a BMW CCA member you might be able to borrow one from a local chapter member to see whether you want to buy one at $25-$30 depending upon supplier. If not, a 1992 E36 318 manual may help you with the engine. I have a factory parts catalog (1993 edition) that includes all years but that only has diagrams and part numbers for the engine and running gear but all the years and models are included.

 

[OreoGaborio]

they stopped making the m10 engined 318 in 87 i believe, then they brought the '18 back in '91 w/ the m42... so thats probably why they don't have a 318 that year, cuz they skipped a few & brought it back w/ a different engine

and i belive the e36 m42 is quite different than the e30 m42... alot more sensors (i THINK it may be OBD) and a different intake manifold design

 

[rjp325i]

The July 1990 issue of the Roundel has a review of the new 318 including a road test. The E30 318i w/M40 engines were part of the 1990, and 1991 model years. The convertible in 1992 was also an E30. There was no E36 convertible in 1992. The M40 engine had OBD 1 the same as the other models. OBD 2 wasn't used til 1996 model year. The ECU units however are different models but you can get a chip for it which will give it another 12 hp. This model engine used the new DME (Digital Motor Electronics) which meant it had 1 coil per cylinder which replaced the the mechanical distributor. The chip is the same for 1990-95 318s. The E36 318 M42 engines are very similar although they produced an additional 4 hp. While some of the fitment parts differed such as the oil pan, the engine design is the same. The earlier 318 of 1984-85 used the M10 engine and were completely different and the M10 ceased production after the 1985 model year.

 

[BMW-M-Freak]

I recently jumped into the BMW Ownership club with the purchase of my 1991 318i Cabriolet. The dealer had a garage that checked it out. I took it to a different garage to get their opinion, and the dealer sent it to a 3rd garage for state inspection. All involved said it was a good investment, and the car's in great shape (and LOADS of fun to drive!!)

I have some problems/questions I would like some of your opinions and experiences on...
1. It wobbles at certain speeds like it needs balancing or has frame damage. The (non-BMW) garage says BMW's are notorious for the wobble, there's no frame damage and doesn't need to be balanced.
2. Power window issues. I bought it with the passenger window inoperable. Likely source of problems? Then on the ride home last night I lost power to the whole power window control console (lighted switches went dead, windows stuck where they are, 3 up 1 down). Lockout-switch problem? Fuse problem? Short circuit? Common problem?
3. What determines the inspection scale at bottom of instrument cluster? time? miles? problems? (i.e., how often am I going to take it in so the yellow light stops glaring at me!?)
4. Has anyone out there retrofit a remote door unlocker onto a power lock system like on this car (can't recall their name for it, but read it in the manual).

Right now, the car is great fun, with more potential. Looks like the big things are good and strong, just dealing with the small irritations that can be part of any used car "compromise". Overall, love my taste of the Beemer-owning (or Bimmer-owning) experience!!!

Thanks for your help!

<signature to be determined>

Nice to have you on the forums. I have an E30 vert also.

1: is this in a turn or on a strightaway? Mine really only wobbles when i'm pushing the suspension and i upset it when i go from a hard right to a hard left.

2: I would be it's a short somewhere, but i had to replace two of my window switches as they were worn out soon after i bought the car

3: The light is determined by miles. If you do a lot of work on the car yourself, you can reset that service indicator manually. someone posted a thread on how to do it yourself earlier, i'm not sure if it's on the updated forums though.

4: can't help ya there

anyhow, enjoy your new car

 

[Big Daddy]

The E30 318i w/M40 engines were part of the 1990, and 1991 model years

My 91 318is has the M42 motor, as I believe all 91's had. It makes it tough to get some parts like exhaust. It is basically an e36 motor in an e30 chassis, and any aftermarket exhaust won't fit without modifications.

The E36 318 M42 engines are very similar although they produced an additional 4 hp.

There is no difference in the e36 M42 and the e30 M42, they are the same motor.

 

[rjp325i]

The first of the M40-42 motors produced 134 hp. The later ones 138 hp. The headers from Supersprint use the same part number for the E30 and E36, however the rest of the system is obviously different due to chassis configuration and have different part numbers. The aftermarket exhaust manufacturer should have all the correct parts available without having to improvise. I know Supersprint does as well as other well known brands. The engines from 1990 - 1995 all use the same performance chip from Jim Conforti/Turner Motorsport. The oil pan and lesser parts are different according to BMW part books and have different part numbers but the internals are the same for the E30 and E36 versions of the M40/42 engine. You can use an E30 manual for the chassis and an E36 318 manual for the engine since the 1990-91 E30 M40/42 engines appear to be missing from the Bentley and Haynes manuals. This engine is a high rev engine that likes its rpms kept up there. The TMS chip adds 12 hp @ 5500 rpm and 16 ft lbs of torque at 2500 while raising the new rev limit to 7000. Remote keyless entry systems are available with and without alarms as well as one touch window and sunroof opening and closing modules. Autoloc (available from www.bavauto.com) makes one and the aforementioned accessories can be added later. The one downside to these systems for the E30s is that the double locking provision does not operate from the remote. Single locking is adequate for most locations but manually using the key will operate the double lock provision when desired. I have this system installed. I tied mine into the trunk central lock module but it can also be connected in at the drivers side kick panel.

 

[bmd2ba]

bmw overhaul

I decided (given my amateur status) that at least to start with I'd take it in for a bona fide BMW certified inquisition. I had some extra money from the insurance settlement that I bought the car with, so I figured it was a worthy investment to essentially reset the clock on the service record (so to speak).

Ok, so there were some things that I couldn't have done on my own. They fixed the wobble by replacing the control arm and ball joint (ouch). But the three $75 window switches (not including labor) that bavauto is selling for $20 opened up my eyes to new frontiers of "do it yourself".

I'll get a pic or two up before too long.

Ciao for now.
ps. It rides MUCH better now!

 

[OreoGaborio]

werd... there's a reason why they call it the "stealership"... if u can go elsewhere for parts & do the job yourself, u can save a SHEETLOAD... i did all rotors, pads, pad wear sensors, thermostat & exhaust hanging hardware for only 250 bucks, where it probably woulda cost me at LEAST a grand if i had a dealership do it

that's one of the things i love about my e30... they're SO freakin easy to work on compared to other cars

 

[rjp325i]

Glad the problem got solved. 2 years ago I had both control arms and ball joints replaced as well as the offset bushings installed. I did not use a dealer but an independent BMW shop and I still know the ouch feeling very well. Almost everything else I do myself or with friends. Did you have them install the offset control arm bushings and have an alignment done? The lighted window switches are a direct drop in replacement for the early non lighted ones like I had on my 1985 and changed out to the later model lighted ones as they crapped out.

 

[bmd2ba]

pending work

He only replaced the driver-side control arm, and said that the passenger side was ok (considering how much the bill was already), and it was decided to hold the passenger side off until it needed it. I'm going to be trying that one (if there's anyone out there in MD... I'll bribe you with beer to help!


But much sooner than that, I'm going to take a stab at replacing the gearshift ball with the lighted one and red-filter disk. It seems an easy enough job for cutting my teeth on (since I wimped out on the window switches), as well as some other little tidbits I've found while exploring bavauto and the like.

 

[Artagra]

Firstly, awesome car - I have one myself

Also a new member, but I've grown up around BMW's (My 2 older brothers, myself and my sister all have 318i / is from 1991/1992).

The wobble can usually be sorted out mostly by wheel balancing - and apparantly keeping your wheels balanced will decrease the likely hood of needing a more serious fix in future (ie to keep your control-arms happy).

A couple of things to watch are :

1. leaking from the 318 is spoiler (the body coloured one) - it's happened to both mine and my brother's car.

2. Dashboard cracks - use a sunshade all the time - it's really the only weakpoint in the car! and when you do get cracks, sort them out (you can get an after market glue filler thing) because the get worse very quickly.

3. mounting of the rear light covers - I used to go through bulbs every few months, till I realised that the covers where on skew ever so slightly.

mmm that's all I can think of right now.

Ohh, for the manual, the standard 318 manual has got pages about the convertible, so I think they all used the same manual. I could try source one for you (I live in SA) or may even have one lying around (our family has had six E30 318's in total!)

Paul J

 

[junglestylz]

By far the Bentley is the only way to go. Haynes are useless!!! I have looked at a couple of 1991 318is's and have heard of one other part that you might want to have checked, if not replaced. This is the profile gasket. Not exactly sure what it does, but from what I hear, if you're not a DIY person, you will probably have to get it done at a shop.

 

[rjp325i]

It was the original factory profile gasket that gave problems VERY quickly. A massive cooling liquid loss was the result of the gasket going with no warning. If the car has 50K miles on it , it has likely to have been already replaced with the one with the metal ring for better sealing. Once this change has been made it'll last a very long time.