Newbie in the building

[bmd2ba]

Quite a chunk o dough later, it's all done. The ride on the highway is beautifully smooth. The rest of the work is cosmetic & such.

Oh, but another window issue, maybe someone can help (convertible problem). The right window (which finally goes up and down) crosses inside of the back window. According to the garage it's because the back window is coming forward just before it stops, and with a small charge of $300, they'll remove the door panels and rear inside molding to make the necessary adjustments. That sounds like something that can't be that hard to do, provided it doesn't involve a highly coveted, secret bmw tool.

Paul - I'm up for the manual if you can find one that isn't being used. I'll send you a check or you can COD it. And thanks for the tips (I'm off to buy a sunshade on your recommendation, although as a general rule I try to park in the shade... the dashboard is in very good shape).

And for those in Baltimore... I passed by someone the other day who was also in a black E30 convertible, and we waved to each other. I know that someone with a black 325 convertible works at the Rotunda on 41st st... are you on here by any chance?

I have pictures in my digital camera... now just to get them here.

Thanks to all for your continued words of fellowship, wisdom, and other assorted well-wishing.


ps...question... if I see a car similar to mine out in the wild, how do I know the body types? (i.e., difference between E30/E36...)
Oh...and I finally got some pics off the digital camera...just trying to attach it here...

 

[nadroj]

i have a 91 318is

 

[OreoGaborio]

ps...question... if I see a car similar to mine out in the wild, how do I know the body types? (i.e., difference between E30/E36...)

http://www.e30sport.net/viewtopic.php?t=6144

everything & more you wanted to know about the different bimmer chasis

if you wanna know the differences between the e30's, that's a different story... they're all pretty similar, but there are differences... lemme know if u want clarification on that

just for side-by-side...
e30 (m-tech btw )

e36

 

[bmd2ba]

I see all the kudos you got from your original posting of the various bodytypes, but I mean, WOW. That has to be up there with one of the best alltime posts of the boards!

 

[OreoGaborio]

huh? who? me?

if you're talkin about the e3s thread i linked above, that's the work of my buddy Jared (Chapel)... he spent some time on that and a full engine code designation thread as well that's in the same FAQ section on e3s... so the props go to him

 

[bmd2ba]

I'm sure there's probably another thread out there for each of these questions, but maybe some other schmuck will come along and find this useful...

1. BMW dealers have to be wealthier than mob dons.

2. I took my car in (again) complaining that the money I spent getting the ride improved should've yielded a much better ride than it has. They said that "Dunlops aren't very good for this model car." I have a set of Dunlop SP Sport A2 (P195/60R14) that came with the car. With winter coming (Baltimore winters are largely frozen, with a heavy wet snow once or twice a month for 3 months, then 3 months of rain), I'm looking for a good all-weather tire that takes away their excuse for not being able to fix the ride, good for highways, and horrible city streets. What are my options?

3. I forgot what 3 was. I think it was the roof. The roof was folding wrong when put into the storage compartment. I noticed that there are 2 half inch cuts in my roof on each side. I found out what the problem was, and fixed that, but I still have 4 half inch cuts in my roof. Fortunately, it's still pretty water tight except in really heavy rains, but I'm worried about snow and ice getting in and expanding the holes. I was thinking fabric tape from the inside (it's largley invisible from the outside unless you know they're there), but I'm not sure how the adhesive would hold up against constant moisture. What is recommended?

BTW, the lighted gearshift was an easy success (although the included instructions left some steps out). Good confidence builder. Next improvement (after the above) is the keyless entry (I've had it sitting on a shelf, waiting for a free weekend, in case I screw it up). It's the AutoLoc (sans alarm) that someone posted in another thread. I'll let you know how easy it is. It's an E30, so I don't have the convenience of the pre-wired harness. Should be interesting.

 

[rjp325i]

I installed an Autoloc system w/o alarm in my 1989 E30. It is not hard and rather straightforward. You have the choice of installing it in the front driver side kick panel or the trunk. I chose the trunk but either will do. The color coding conforms to the kick panel config I believe so that might be easier. Space is more abudant in the trunk behind the rear panel. You will need some velcro tho to hold it in place.

 

[bmd2ba]

Since the car has the central locking system, can you explain how the remote works with unlocking the doors, vs. unlocking the trunk, and the "double locking"? I wasn't really clear in the explanation in the instructions that came with it. And why did you opt to choose the trunk, rather than behind the kick panel?

 

[rjp325i]

The double locking feature does not operate with the remote on the E30 system. None of the systems I checked out did so for the E30. I have the model Stellar (Autoloc) BMW45 unit. The Aotoloc module ties into the central locking system which controls both the door and trunk locking systems. You have to splice into a couple wires (lock & unlock) whichever location you use. In any case the keyless entry system is in addition to what you have now. Nothing is disabled so everything works as it did before. You can still double lock manually from the drivers side door or trunk lock. I chose the trunk location as it is easier to work there because there is more room to work and mount the module. Visibility is better too and its easier on the back. The kick panel actuator and the trunk actuator both have all the required wires. On the downside I had to probe the trunk actuator wires to get the right ones because the color coding is different from the front kick panel. The trunk placement also puts you close to the battery compartment for continuous power supply and a good ground. If you use the front kick panel you can go by color code and that eliminates probing. Make sure you connect to a good ground in either case. Under the hood you have the jump start terminal available for power supply if you choose. I stretched the antenna horizontal across the trunk panel between the metal and the gray trunk panel. Use a couple of strips of velcro to attach the module to the metal trunk panel to keep it in place. Overall it took about an hour to install but just take your time. There are several add on options to the Autoloc module that can be added at a later date as well.

 

[bmd2ba]

Very cool. I will let you know how it goes.

While I'm on it... I was hoping also for a response on the tire question... I have the factory 14" wheels, and evidently Dunlops aren't good (so sayeth BMW). What's a good tire for a smoothe ride, but also good in all kinds of nasty weather?
[???1]

 

[rjp325i]

Did you try going into the Tire Rack site and check out the tests and reviews of several different tire makes/models for all season tires as well as fitment? Dunlop does make a good tire, check out their SP Sport A2. I do not know why BMW said they are not good except that they are not factory standard equipment. Remember they are the ones that had horrendous Uniroyals and Good Year NCTs installed on E30s at the factory. Not everyone got the Michelin MXVs or Pirelli P6s back then. Pirelli P4000 is a highly regarded tire as well. Check out that one too. Try to go with a 205-60-14 instead of the 195-65-14. It has a .3" wider tread. Not all makes and models are available in both sizes. You should look for an H speed rating which is the minimum you want and also will find it is most likely the max you will find in those sizes.