picking up '05 330i zhp
- Thread starter captain john
- Start date
I suppose you could install them (yes, you can buy xenons in the aftermarket), but why would you want to? If you replace teh high beams from halogen to xenons and use them normally, it would just dramatically shorten the lifespan of the xenon bulbs. Be kind of a waste of money (course it's your money and you're free to do as you wish). That's why BMW didn't put xenons there in the first place.
As for the foglights, in actual fog, you'd just blind yourself. If you're using them as driving lights, it's kind of overkill since you have xenon headlights already. Again, a waste of money. The standard fogs fill in the area right in front and to the side of your car. Spots the headlights don't cover as well b/c they're designed to project farther up the road.
If you're talking about the cheap blue tinted halogen bulbs that can mimic the look of xenons, then yeah, it's easy to change those. just make sure the bulb doesn't shine too blue cuz a cop might pull you over for it and you'll look funny cuz the colors won't match.
As for the foglights, in actual fog, you'd just blind yourself. If you're using them as driving lights, it's kind of overkill since you have xenon headlights already. Again, a waste of money. The standard fogs fill in the area right in front and to the side of your car. Spots the headlights don't cover as well b/c they're designed to project farther up the road.
If you're talking about the cheap blue tinted halogen bulbs that can mimic the look of xenons, then yeah, it's easy to change those. just make sure the bulb doesn't shine too blue cuz a cop might pull you over for it and you'll look funny cuz the colors won't match.
![[thumb]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumb.gif "Thumbs Up [thumb]"){kind=icon}
![[driving]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_driving.gif "Driving [driving]"){kind=icon}
Yeah, fog's a tricky thing. With xenons, since the light is so concentrated, it'd likely just reflect off the fog back up into your face. Next time it's super foggy, just turn on your high beams. As bad as that is, imagine it 10X worse. That's prolly what will happen if you had xenons doing that.
That's on top of the decreased bulb life of the xenons if you used them for high beams. For some technical reason, xenon bulbs dramatically lose life span if you flick them on and off. So, if you flash your brights, you'd be dramatically decreasing the life span of xenon bulbs. B/c of that factor, BMW didn't put xenons in the high beams. Your car will have bixenons. If you need high beams on for extended periods of time, your car won't use the inner lights for highbeams, but will switch open this filter on your xenon bulbs.
For fog, there's not much you can do. Standard equipment is about it. Fog lights should be pointed low and the light pattern should be spread out so that you're more visible and the light doesn't blind you.
///MSPEED's break in guideline is correct. The only thing I'd add is to make sure you vary the revs during that time. That means, you can't just set cruise control and take a very long trip to get the break-in period over with. You have to rev up and down up to that 5500 rpm mark to get the engine properly broken in. It's fun on a BMW tho so it's no big deal.
Oh, you need to break in your brakes too. I think you're supposed to go super gentle on them for the first 300 miles or so. Someone correct me if I'm not totally right.
That's on top of the decreased bulb life of the xenons if you used them for high beams. For some technical reason, xenon bulbs dramatically lose life span if you flick them on and off. So, if you flash your brights, you'd be dramatically decreasing the life span of xenon bulbs. B/c of that factor, BMW didn't put xenons in the high beams. Your car will have bixenons. If you need high beams on for extended periods of time, your car won't use the inner lights for highbeams, but will switch open this filter on your xenon bulbs.
For fog, there's not much you can do. Standard equipment is about it. Fog lights should be pointed low and the light pattern should be spread out so that you're more visible and the light doesn't blind you.
///MSPEED's break in guideline is correct. The only thing I'd add is to make sure you vary the revs during that time. That means, you can't just set cruise control and take a very long trip to get the break-in period over with. You have to rev up and down up to that 5500 rpm mark to get the engine properly broken in. It's fun on a BMW tho so it's no big deal.
Oh, you need to break in your brakes too. I think you're supposed to go super gentle on them for the first 300 miles or so. Someone correct me if I'm not totally right.
This may be true on the 325/330's. My experience is from my M3. With the redline at 8k on the M's I know for a fact it is 5500rpm. I just had my rod bearing replaced and had to go through the whole break-in period over again. Man that is hard to do on an M.
The break-in period for each individual model BMW is clearly stated/written in the owner’s manual. I wouldn’t be surprised if the dealer goes over it with you when you pick the car up. What ever you do make sure to follow to guidelines. It is very important on a BMW. With that said, don't stress too much if you accidentally go over the recommended RPM/MPH once-in-a-while while in its break-in period. Just don't habitually do it and you will be fine.
The break-in period for each individual model BMW is clearly stated/written in the owner’s manual. I wouldn’t be surprised if the dealer goes over it with you when you pick the car up. What ever you do make sure to follow to guidelines. It is very important on a BMW. With that said, don't stress too much if you accidentally go over the recommended RPM/MPH once-in-a-while while in its break-in period. Just don't habitually do it and you will be fine.
This guy is talking about 2-stroke motorcycle engines and is mainly an idiot. I've seen this article before...his opinion has no credibility to me.
It's not really the engine you have to worry about, but the gears. The gears need the full 1,200 miles to properly break-in, along with the brakes, the suspension, even the tires.
You can drive your car normally for the first 1,200 miles and get away with it. But if you follow the break-in period properly, you'll get the best gas mileage, best performance, and a longer engine/car life, and you will have properly broken-in your brakes and tires (yes, your brakes need to be bedded properly!!).
Xenon headlights are great as they light up the road extremely well. But Xenons have a dirty litttle secret. They don't work so well in the rain (wet roads), and they are awful in fog. Your stock fog lights are Halogens. They are positioned and designed to better illuminate the road in foggy situations and to see what is immediately in front of you. You should also know that opting for the Xenons, you get Bi-Xenon healdights. So your low-beams and high-beams already are Xenons. The fog lights are Halogens and they should stay that way. And when you're driving around in the day with your lights off, and you pull the high-beam stalk towards you to "flash" drivers (to tell them to make a turn, or to get them out of the way, whatever), the inner Halogen bulbs handle that job. Basically, you should not mess with the light system much as it is a really great setup...unless you really know your stuff when it comes to lighting, but you don't because you wouldn't be asking the question in the first place.
Congrats on the order and the car. Post some pictures when you get it.![[:D]](/images/smilies/biggrin.png "Big Grin [:D]")
It's not really the engine you have to worry about, but the gears. The gears need the full 1,200 miles to properly break-in, along with the brakes, the suspension, even the tires.
You can drive your car normally for the first 1,200 miles and get away with it. But if you follow the break-in period properly, you'll get the best gas mileage, best performance, and a longer engine/car life, and you will have properly broken-in your brakes and tires (yes, your brakes need to be bedded properly!!).
Xenon headlights are great as they light up the road extremely well. But Xenons have a dirty litttle secret. They don't work so well in the rain (wet roads), and they are awful in fog. Your stock fog lights are Halogens. They are positioned and designed to better illuminate the road in foggy situations and to see what is immediately in front of you. You should also know that opting for the Xenons, you get Bi-Xenon healdights. So your low-beams and high-beams already are Xenons. The fog lights are Halogens and they should stay that way. And when you're driving around in the day with your lights off, and you pull the high-beam stalk towards you to "flash" drivers (to tell them to make a turn, or to get them out of the way, whatever), the inner Halogen bulbs handle that job. Basically, you should not mess with the light system much as it is a really great setup...unless you really know your stuff when it comes to lighting, but you don't because you wouldn't be asking the question in the first place.
Congrats on the order and the car. Post some pictures when you get it.
That guy has the same website design as that once-a-year-car-wax, those "quack books" and early-AM-TV-miracle-product-promotions. Considering that alone you can QUITE SAFELY assume his opinion is worthless and (I didn't read long enough, but it's highly likely) that he is trying to sell something...
I've heard people saying your car would perform better if you drive it like you stole it during the run in period. it might be true in the short run but think that's going to shorten the life of your car. many people who lease their car and knowing that they will not be buying it back does the same thing. this is one reason why i don't like getting off lease vehicle. bottom line is if you own (and not leasing) the vehicle is up to you to decide if you want to take good care of it and make it last or just hammer it as much as you can and drive it like there is no tomorrow.
Just because my sig says drive it like you stole it doesn't mean I advocate this policy (it's my attempt at humor). If you read the break-in procedure that the mototune guy reccomends... it DOES NOT involve "hammer it as much as you can" procedures. He says warm the engine up to full operating temp then take it out under varrying loads and varring RPMs (to include trips to redline). to give the rings a better chance at seating. Read his thought process and look at his results. It makes sense to me.
[target]
Actually I just wasted a few minutes of my life and checked back, he is SELLING SOMETHING.... HE SELLS MAGAZINE SUBSCRIPTIONS.
The fact that he needs an attention/marketing template for his website SAYS EVERYTHING ABOUT HIM.
The guy "builds" HIS OWN ENGINES not BMW's Honda's or anyone elses for that matter, therefore he doesn't know what he's talking about.
Lastly, I keep a VERY CLOSED MIND to prevent any pollution and corruption from ever getting in. Take care buddy...each to his own.
The fact that he needs an attention/marketing template for his website SAYS EVERYTHING ABOUT HIM.
The guy "builds" HIS OWN ENGINES not BMW's Honda's or anyone elses for that matter, therefore he doesn't know what he's talking about.
Lastly, I keep a VERY CLOSED MIND to prevent any pollution and corruption from ever getting in. Take care buddy...each to his own.
No thanks, I will go with the recommendations/guidelines of the company who built the engine. Who knows better than they do? I am sure they have their reason for setting the standards they do however, once you buy the car you are free to do what you please with it. Just make sure you don't let BMW know you didn't follow their procedures, because you will be flipping the bill for any damages due caused....