Break in period

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#21
Like Krafty, the ED center in Munich told me 1200 miles, 3000 RPM (I think they changed it from 3000 to 4000 this summer), vary the speed, no cruise control. Also, the manual states to take it easy on the brakes, which doesn't get mentioned too often here.

When this topic came up before, I did a bit of research into the reasons. I'm convinced that the recommendations of the factory should be followed. It gets somewhat involved to explain, I thought about putting a FAQ together on this topic. Maybe I'll work on that.

Sometimes the comment is made that since Porsche, Ferrari, Lambo, etc. don't have break in requirements, BMW doesn't need it either. Or that since the engines are test run at the factory, they don't need break in. But there can be (and I think probably are) specific differences in manufacturing techniques that make a big difference.

Also note that one or two 'ooops' redlines will not damage it. It's primarily prolonged operation (30 seconds or more) above the recommended RPM that can potentially do the damage.

My thought, like others here, is that the break in period won't hurt anything, but not breaking it in properly could be bad.
 
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#22
salvo said:
Hey Ghost...what, do you have a quote book always next to you?
No, I love to read and I used to have a great memory(before the wine and women[hihi] )but now I remember many things by association. That’s why sometimes I quote things from different mediums books, movies, television shows. I love to learn so I am always open to anything anyone has to say, even if I may not agree. A wise person knows that they don’t know everything.

The usefulness of a cup is in its emptiness. Bruce Lee(Zen Master story, pm for more info) He was the reason I started reading philosophy in grammar school. He majored in it when he was in college. I’ve always liked being a ‘smart-jock.' That's why my friends started calling me the Ghost, whether physically or verbally I can come out of nowhere and open your eyes.
 
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William330

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#23
Felicia68 said:
Okay, I haven't read the manual yet since I just got her. However, I really got on her today but I was being taunted by some punk in his IS 300 for 3 lights. I sorta left him behind... :)
Not a good idea.

Allow the car to break in, so you have less headaches later.

The manual has all the information you need to know.

Good luck with your new ride!
 
 
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#24
Remeber they are watching you

Any "events" above factory reccomended rpm's will show up when they hook your car up to the diagnostics!

Could jeopardize your warranty or future claims...in today's interconnected world just remeber someone is always watching!

Enjoy your new ride, but FOLLOW THE MANUAL!
 
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#25
Your best bet is to drive it how you normally drive it. I mean, don't baby the car, but don't take it over 4,000rpm. Usually people take their cars over 4,000rpm only when merging onto the highway, so just watch your tach when getting onto the highway, otherwise just drive it like you normally would. This way, the engine breaks in to your driving style. As for braking, brake normally, but don't do any "panic" or emergency stops. The brakes AND the tires need 1,000 miles to truly break in.
In truth, the whole engine break-in is not scientifically accurate. 4-stroke engines don't break-in the way 2-stroke engines do. It is pretty much impossible to break-in the engine incorrectly, and in fact, a lot of hard-core mechanics suggest running the car hard from day one. Auto manufacturers only suggest the 1,200 miles and 4,000rpm just to be on the safe side and you should just follow that and you'll be fine. For example, Porsche doesn't even have a break-in period. Audi only requires 600 miles for the new S4's break-in period and I believe the Acura TL only has a 600-mile break-in as well!
 
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#26
I just spoke to my sales person at my dealer about the break-in period for my car (2004 330xi). He said about 500 miles and just be careful not to redline. When asked about the 1200 mile break-in period that I read about in this forum, he told me that that was the recommendation for the M, not a 330. Just thought I'd share.
 

epj3

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#27
life with bmw, I dont agree with you. If the manufacturer says 1200 miles is the break in period, then it's the break in period. Even if your average engine speed is 2500 rpm (higher if you do city driving), that means EACH of your pistons gets to move 500,000 times in that 1200 miles (engine will turn over 3,000,000 times) which I believe would be MORE than enough to have it broken in!!!
 
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#28
Susie, officially, your salesperson is unfortunately wrong. Here's what the 3 Series 2004 Manual says. You can get these online at the Owner's Circle:
 

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#29
Kirby THANKS! My sales person is full of doo doo. I guess I was wanting to believe him, thinking that I could drive my car all out in just 500 miles, but this 1200 mile this is going to kill me! Especially when friends want to see what this car can do ... I will be so eager to show them - guess we'll all just have to wait about a month.
 
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#30
Yes it is PAINFUL! I did Euro Delivery, so in some areas it was legal for me to go 100, 110, 125 mph on the Autobahn. But I had to limit it to about 105 mph. [:(]
 
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#32
You still buy the vehicle from your local dealer, so the taxes, customs, shipping costs are exactly the same as if you bought it off the lot, nothing at all to deal with.

Euro Delivery provides a discount, I think it was 7% off the base cost of the car. All options are at full list. Some people report being able to negotiate more than 7%, I could not. They include European temporary registration and insurance at no additional cost. BMW does this as a way to "give back" to Germany and increase tourism.

Planning the trip (airfare, lodging, etc.) is completely up to you. You can do it all yourself, use your travel agent, or use Conde Naste who has partnered with BMW. Conde Naste is good but $$$$$$$$$. I travel on business frequently and had previously been to Europe so I really wanted to plan/book my own trip via the Internet, no big deal to me. Planning it yourself could be overwhelming to someone who is not comfortable with international travel. In that case a travel agent is a good idea.

My airfare was about $450 per person, booked well in advance.
 
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#33
Drove my 330xi home last night! My salesperson told me not to red-line during the break in period and to get it up to 100mph in the first 200-500 miles. Has anyone heard of this method? He said to let the engine get real hot ("blow-out") and then everything will tighten up. ??? Was he a crackpot?
 
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#34
He doesn't know what he's talking about. The purpose of not exceeding 4500 RPM is to specifically AVOID extra localized heating in the cylinders. Unfortunately this is hard to explain without getting "motorhead" detailed and technical.

In the briefest terms, BMW recommends this to avoid something called "glazing the cylinder walls". This occurs when the cylinder wall gets TOO HOT (by cylinder/piston/ring friction) before the rings have set and gently polished the cylinder walls. Glazing results in a "loose" engine, oil consumption and premature compression loss. The only way to fix a glazed engine is to disassemble it and hone the cylinders - not something you want to do to your new Bimmer.

The salesperson saying to let it get real hot and "blow-out" is EXACTLY what BMW DOESN'T want you to do. Ask him a simple question - if his recommendation damages the engine and BMW says the warranty is void due to abuse, will HE PERSONALLY & FINANCIALLY guarantee your car in writing? We know the answer to that!

Many people will say that they didn't follow the break in and had no problems. Very true, some got lucky, some pushed it only briefly a few times, some don't realize that they use more oil than they should, and some will find out after 100,000 miles if they keep the car that long.
 
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#35
Thanks so much! It sounded a little strange, keeping in mind the other break-in limitations. Thanks for the description of what can happen, it helped a lot. I prefer to know WHY rather than just WHAT. Thanks Kirby!
 
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#36
Kirby said:
In the briefest terms, BMW recommends this to avoid something called "glazing the cylinder walls". This occurs when the cylinder wall gets TOO HOT (by cylinder/piston/ring friction) before the rings have set and gently polished the cylinder walls. Glazing results in a "loose" engine, oil consumption and premature compression loss. The only way to fix a glazed engine is to disassemble it and hone the cylinders - not something you want to do to your new Bimmer.

Excellent piece of information Kirby. This is also the same reason for breaking in the brakes. If the rotors/brakes get too hot, too soon, they will also glaze and it will be vital to have them resurfaced or if necessary, replaced.
 
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Epi330

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#37
Kirby said:
BMW does this as a way to "give back" to Germany and increase tourism.
To the best of my knowledge, BMW does this because they can sell the car cheaper that way. Import taxes (or how it's called) are different on new and used cars. With ED your car is technically "used" when they brought it to US, so the tax rate is lower than when car is imported as new. Am I wrong?
 
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#38
I always try to follow the break-in period, but I think the whole concept of break-in period with a 4-stroke engine is pure bullshit. I think manufacturers only suggest that because that is the safest thing to do. The pistons in 4-stroke engines are seated properly and it is extremely hard to mess them up unless it's due to high mileage. In fact, there are a lot of mechanics out there who suggest that you run the engine hard from day one so that the engine breaks in "aggressively" and outputs the highest power possible. And I don't understand the whole "you're not supposed to let the brakes get too hot" deal...all brakes do is get hot...how can you avoid that? You're not supposed to brake aggressively because the brakes have to wear down at first, as do the tires. Then they perform at optimal levels. I have seen lots of my friends whip the shit out of their brand-new cars during the first 1,000 miles and they have never had a problem with their cars.
At the factory, when building your new car (whether it's a BMW or not), they spin the engine at different rpm's, all the way up to redline anyways. So what's the difference if you take it to redline or they do? Absolutely nothing.
 
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#39
Epi330 said:
Originally posted by Kirby
BMW does this as a way to "give back" to Germany and increase tourism.

To the best of my knowledge, BMW does this because they can sell the car cheaper that way. Import taxes (or how it's called) are different on new and used cars. With ED your car is technically "used" when they brought it to US, so the tax rate is lower than when car is imported as new. Am I wrong?
FWIW, When I picked my car up in Munich, I did ask the ED people why they discounted ED cars. Their answer was the tourism story, so it came from a presumably reliable source. With that said, it is absolutely correct that they are importing a used car so I guess the tax rate may have something to do with it, but doesn't a 7% difference seem a bit much? Anybody here an expert in import tarriffs?

It DID feel really odd picking up my NEW car at the dealer when it arrived, and signing a Pennsylvania USED car mileage disclosure form!
 
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#40
MrElussive said:
I always try to follow the break-in period, but I think the whole concept of break-in period with a 4-stroke engine is pure bullshit. I think manufacturers only suggest that because that is the safest thing to do. The pistons in 4-stroke engines are seated properly and it is extremely hard to mess them up unless it's due to high mileage. ....... So what's the difference if you take it to redline or they do? Absolutely nothing.
The company I work for owns two corporate planes (Cessna Twin and a King Air) so I have had a chance to talk to our aviation mechanic/pilot about engine break in during long trips. With aircraft engines they are fanatic (for obviously good reasons) about proper break in. Our cars do not have aircraft engines, but he says the same concerns apply.

Here's what most people I have talked to consider the definitive analysis of engine break in. I highlighted a few interesting points. Read what the experts have written and form your own conclusions: [:)]
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Suggestions for Proper Engine Break-In
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Whenever an engine's piston rings are replaced whether in part or in entirety it is necessary to break in the engine. Piston rings are replaced at a complete engine overhaul or repair, top overhaul or single cylinder overhaul or repair.

When we refer to engine or cylinder break in, we are talking about the physical mating of the engine's piston rings to it's corresponding cylinder wall. That is, we want to physically wear the new piston rings into the cylinder wall until a compatible seal between the two is achieved.

Proper engine break in will produce an engine that achieves maximum power output with the least amount of oil consumption due to the fact that the piston rings have seated properly to the cylinder wall. When the piston rings are broken in or seated, they do not allow combustion gases to escape the combustion chamber past the piston rings into the crankcase section of the engine. This lack of "blow-by" keeps your engine running cleaner and cooler by preventing hot combustion gases and by-products from entering the crankcase section of the engine. Excessive "blow-by" will cause the crankcase section of the engine to become pressurized and contaminated with combustion gases, which in turn will force normal oil vapors out of the engine's breather, causing the engine to consume excessive amounts of oil. In addition to sealing combustion gases in the combustion chamber, piston rings must also manage the amount of oil present on the cylinder walls for lubrication. If the rings do not seat properly, they cannot perform this function and will allow excessive amounts of oil to accumulate on the cylinder wall surfaces. This oil is burned each and every time the cylinder fires. The burning of this oil, coupled with "blow-by" induced engine breathing, are reasons that an engine that hasn't been broken in will consume more than its share of oil.

When a cylinder is overhauled or repaired the surface of it's walls are honed with abrasive stones to produce a rough surface that will help wear the piston rings in. This roughing up of the surface is known as "cross-hatching". A cylinder wall that has been properly "cross hatched" has a series of minute peaks and valleys cut into its surface. The face or portion of the piston ring that interfaces with the cross hatched cylinder wall is tapered to allow only a small portion of the ring to contact the honed cylinder wall. When the engine is operated, the tapered portion of the face of the piston ring rubs against the coarse surface of the cylinder wall causing wear on both objects. At the point where the top of the peaks produced by the honing operation become smooth and the tapered portion of the piston ring wears flat break in has occurred.

When the engine is operating, a force known as Break Mean Effective Pressure or B.M.E.P is generated within the combustion chamber. B.M.E.P. is the resultant force produced from the controlled burning of the fuel air mixture that the engine runs on. The higher the power setting the engine is running at, the higher the B.M.E.P. is and conversely as the power setting is lowered the B.M.E.P. becomes less.

B.M.E.P is an important part of the break in process. When the engine is running, B.M.E.P. is present in the cylinder behind the piston rings and it's force pushes the piston ring outward against the coarse honed cylinder wall. The higher the B.M.E.P, the harder the piston ring is pushed against the wall. The surface temperature at the piston ring face and cylinder wall interface will be greater with high B.M.E.P. than with low B.M.E.P. This is because we are pushing the ring harder against the rough cylinder wall surface causing high amounts of friction and thus heat. The primary deterrent of break in is this heat. Allowing to much heat to build up at the ring to cylinder wall interface will cause the lubricating oil that is present to break down and glaze the cylinder wall surface. This glaze will prevent any further seating of the piston rings. If glazing is allowed to happen break in will never occur. We must achieve a happy medium where we are pushing on the ring hard enough to wear it in but not hard enough to generate enough heat to cause glazing. If glazing should occur, the only remedy is to remove the effected cylinder, re-hone it and replace the piston rings and start the whole process over again.

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I believe BMW engineers have analyzed their engine design, factory test procedures, etc. and achieving this "happy medium" is why BMW specifies the RPM limitation and mileage restriction. I also feel that depending on a manufacturer's assembly techniques and factory test run, the recommendations will vary.
 


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